d******0
发帖数: 22800 | 1 【 以下文字转载自 Watch_Timepiece 俱乐部 】
发信人: CCMR (花和尚), 信区: Watch_Timepiece
标 题: Movement Quick Reference Guide (ZZ)
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Mon Nov 22 01:08:49 2010, 美东)
一篇好文,有机芯价格，建议喜欢机芯的教友收藏。
http://alturl.com/ckves
机芯详细资料
http://tinyurl.com/23tapbj
表的知识
http://tinyurl.com/2fm3yh7
Movement Quick Reference Guide
ETA 2824-2
One of the more common automatic ETA movements. Commonly found in watches requiring a standard dial and date wheel. Beats at 28,000 BPH (beats per hour)
ETA 2836-2
Similar to the 2824-2, but this one allows for day/date function.
ETA 2892-2
A thinner movement similar to the 2824-2. This model is also capable of 28,800bph.
ETA 2893-2
Based on the 2892-2, but capable of allowing a GMT function as well.
Asian 21j
This is one of the most common automatic movements. There are many versions of this movement. Most have proven to be reliable and affordable alternatives to the ETA version. Ticks at 21,600bph. The Asian 21 Jewel movement is almost always Chinese in origin, and it is a work horse movement. Extremely reliable, for long periods of time, this simple movement typically just has one set of hands and a date wheel. The simplicity of the movement itself makes it very reliable.
Asian 7750
Has subdials at 12, 9, & 6 that dictate 30 minute counter, running seconds, and 12 hours counter respectively. Also available in the 3-6-9 configuration. Reliability of older 21.6kbph models is constantly up for debate, but the general consensus is that if the watch has running seconds at 9, and is well maintained, you will have a watch that will be reliable. The number one rule with an Asian 7750 is to NEVER change the date while the time is between 10 o’clock & 2 o’clock. Also never reset the chronos while they are running. Both actions may cause damage to the movement.
The 7750 with seconds running at 6 is generally the same as the running seconds at 9 version, with an additional module that allows for the seconds to run on the 6 o’clock subdial. This movement is not very reliable, and you should proceed with caution should you decide to purchase a watch with this version.
Swiss 7750/7753
This movement has become very expensive as of late and is not being offered in many watches anymore due to the price increase. However, this is a great movement and far more reliable than the Asian version. Buy with confidence.
Asian 7753
Similar to the 7750 in that it is an automatic chronograph movement. Subdials are located at 3, 6 & 9. Same issues with reliability.
Asian 2824-2 Copy
A newer movement that has only recently hit the market. This is similar to the 21j, but it beats at the faster and more accurate to genuine, 28,000bph.
6497 Hand Wind Movements
The 6497 movement is used in larger hand-wind watches. There are both "Asian" and "Swiss" 6497 movements available at differing prices. The average difference is about $100. A simple rule to always follow; wind the watch until it stops and you can't wind it anymore. Until and unless you have reached the full stop and can't wind anymore, you have not fully wound the watch. The Asian 6497 models may be slightly more sensitive to harsh over-winding, where the user fully winds the watch, and then, despite the resistance, continues to attempt to wind it and eventually breaks something.
This movement beats at 18,000 BPH. Power reserve is 46 hours. This movement has been around in one form or another for over 70 years, and was used in vintage pocket watches. After shipping these movements out for quite some time, it has been our experience that watches based on these movements are very seldom damaged during shipping. Also refered to on our site as "Basic 6497" and "Upgraded 6497". The "Upgraded" version usually refers to a 6497 that has a swan's neck regulator and other minor upgrades.
The Venus 175 Movement
Chronometer movement, manual wind. Good movement, well designed and built, does suffer from jerky seconds hand once in a while. Not bad as delivered, clean, oiled so and so. 21,600 BPH. Typically seen in Omega Moon watches, Roger Dubuis, some discontinued Panerai models, and other assorted brands. It has been our experience that these movements are extremely reliable. We have never had one of these movements damaged during shipping.
The Asian 21 Jewel Automatic Movement
Reliability Rating Asian 21j: 5/5 = Excellent
Some people call them 'Miyota' movements, some people call them 'Japanese' movements. The Asian 21 Jewel movement is almost always Chinese in origin, and it is a work horse movement. Extremely reliable, for long periods of time, this simple movement typically just has one set of hands and a date wheel. The simplicity of the movement itself makes it very reliable. They typically beat at 21,600 BPH and have a power reserve of 36 hours. Despite their price, they are very reliable, however many people prefer the smoother sweeping Swiss ETA movement.
What is BPH?
BPH is the number of beats per hour. A watch with a 28,800 BPH ticks and tocks 28,800 times per hour, meaning the balance wheel makes this number of swings clockwise and counter-clockwise every hour. Each swing is a "Tic" (or Toc) and the number per hour, divided by 60 minutes, and 60 seconds, will tell you how smooth the seconds hand runs. In this instance, you have 8 "Ticks/Tocks" per second, and the hand will appear to "Sweep" across the dial, this is the smoothest you can get. Other common BPH are 21,600 (7750, Venus 175) 6 ticks per second, and 18,000 BPH (ETA 6497-1 manual wind PAM models), 2.5 ticks per second. This is why older 7750 movements do not sweep as smoothly as ETA movements or newer 7750 movements. This is also why watches that use the 6497 movement typically do not have seconds hands in the center, but usually as a smaller sub-dial instead.
下面是drei的大作，在跟帖中有原版
发信人: drei (drei), 信区: Watch_Timepiece
标 题: Re: Movement Quick Reference Guide (ZZ)
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Mon Nov 22 01:45:41 2010, 美东)
zz......
第一部分:手动部分.
我很欣赏“手卷”这个日本词语.它那么的形象,那人和表的,通过那细小的动作,便紧密
的联系在了一起.“我给你动力,你为我工作”.我爱手动,爱的要死.
1.ETA7001:
这枚机芯,是传统瑞士小三针版路的一个总结。他的样子，够小巧，也够精制。它是很多
不需要自厂生产品牌的手动芯的首选.从1971设计制造开始,在它之前之后的2660,2691,
2801,都不如他影响大.这尺寸只有23.3MM* 2.5MM的17钻芯,便被太多品牌选用.连自己有
无数手动资本的OMEGA,也把他变成了CAL.651来装备自己的产品.而德国的NOMOS，更是靠
它大出风头。 它的动力储存42小时 注意：它以前，属于著名的Peseux。
2.ETA6497：本身是Unitas最后的通用级别的怀表芯，对于手表说，很大，有36.6MM的直
径和4.5MM的厚度。以前，除了TISSOT批量做怀表需要它，其他的厂商可以置之不理。但
流行大表的风潮，却让它美美风光了一把。大，就是好，准确，稳定。虽然是18000的摆
幅，却可以把很多现代的小芯，打的落花流水。同批的型号，是6498。只是，小秒针转
移了90度。
3.CELLINI 1602:没人太清楚这芯的资料,包括很多的玩家,人们太多的注意力,都集中在
CELLINI那美艳不可方物的外形上,所以,并不在乎它的里面到底有什么心脏.数据如下：
直径20。8MM,厚度2。3MM,摆幅21600/每小时。他的机板，具有可调校大小摆系统,可以
精确调整摆轮的摆幅.调校部分取消了快慢针，靠摆轮上有2颗微调螺丝控制,单层结构铍
青铜合金游丝，具有4方位调校。手感，爽的晕。
4.JLC CAL.822:这枚1992年开线生产的机芯,尺寸不大,但却是近似长圆的22.6 x 17.2的
格局.厚度: 2.94. 它是现代JLC的手卷代表作.装配在翻转系列的手卷上.它衍生了823,
824等多功能产品.它的妙处所在:微调在外桩上,有+-号进行控制.打磨的水平，以是顶级
的感觉。
5.PP CAL.215:从1974 开始,PP改良了手卷品种.借鉴以前生产优质机芯的经验,这枚尺寸
只有21.9MM* 2.55MM的基础芯的代表做,问世了.他是18钻,动力储存 44 小时.很轻松的
，它拥有了别人一辈子都不敢想的日内瓦印记.大多数人惊叹的是它那鬼斧神工的雕琢，
却忽视了，他那PP特有的珐码微调摆轮，可以调的很准。
6.AP CAL.3090:见过AP近年新设计的CAL。3090的人,无论你有没有美术细胞,都会被那极
有魅力版路所吸引.我认为,它是世界上最美的手卷芯,那种感觉,是大象无形的美.每一个
棱角,每一个弧度,都那么的恰到好处.有增一分太肥,减一分太瘦的极至.这时候,用所谓
的技术去说明她-----一个艺术品,岂不庸俗?
7.Piaget 9P：它太有名气，也太有影响力了，以至于不得不和钟先生的选择重复。如果
说，每个机芯厂都能设计生产如此薄而又如此稳定的的产品，那瑞士表的品质，是不是
会更加出色？1958开线，只有2.15MM的厚度，却比很多比它厚的芯厉害的多。动力储存
有38小时。
8.GO:CAL.49:我认为,德国表的近年复苏,其魅力,绝对是自动芯无法体现的,那K金套筒,
蓝钢螺丝,那古典的锣丝摆轮和让人心跳不已的鹅颈微调,都被那德国风格打磨的3/4夹板
衬托的淋漓尽致（有的人，分不清瑞士风格的日内瓦条纹和类似的德国式的打磨）.如多
了自动陀,遮住了很多，岂不大刹风景??
9.Lemania 1873:它最有名气的使用者,便是OMEGA的速霸.在登月的号召力下,速霸成为O
MEGA最卖座的长寿系列.在OMEGA上,他叫CAL.1861.但这枚手动的计时芯,也在B&M,Breit
ling, Chopard, Sinn, Loran 等很厂家的手动计时上使用.原则上讲，它比手动的ETA7
760高级。他的尺寸是:27.5MM*6.87MM。50小时动力.
10.CHOPARD LUC1。98：知道LUC是CHOPARD的创始人的名字的缩写的玩家，不多。这系列
，实在是很出彩。2000年从CHOPARD研究所出世的这枚1。98，拥有44钻，4个发条盒提供
了216小时的动力，加上优秀的打磨和顶级的调整结构，十足把这家有条件拥有日内瓦印
记的小厂，提高到一个新的境界。
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第二部分:我私下认为,自动表到底有没有必要,为了每天省那几个上链的动作,便要加上
很多的部件,实在麻烦.但不管怎么说,它毕竟是机芯的一大进步.不写它.很难表现时代的
市场.
1.ETA2892:现在世面上的自动机械表,不用21钻的ETA2892的,有多少??上至独立制表人的
作品，下至几千元的钢款普及品，都在用它。ETA28系列，本是某厂牌自动款的看家菜，
但无论是ETA2824,还是ETA2836,都不如这1983年开线的2892更高级和广泛.如果老海真的
不再向集团外出售2892,那是否,瑞士有一半以上的厂家要换线?这枚芯的特点,是以最低
的价格,让使用者享受最超值的瑞士钟表的概念.他的是25.6MM *3.6MM。
2.ETA7750:虽然有手动的7760,但写ETA的计时芯系列,首选必须是自动17钻的7750.这个
30MM直径，7。9MM厚度的计时芯，占有了计时芯绝大部分的市场.如同ETA2892一样普及
.有无数的品牌在改良它，加工它,但却永远要真诚的标著：芯,ETA7750.它从1973开始上
线，从没停止过生产。 要记住，在被ETA收购前,它是Valjoux.
3.ROLEX CAL.3135:经过了CAL.1570和CAL.3035长期运做的经验后,ROLEX创作了独占鳌头
的3135.他有独特的四个锣丝的内调摆轮和特殊镀层的自动轮.从1988年开始,它和他的兄
弟3130,3155逐渐装配到了ROLEX的几乎所有蚝式简单款系列上.它不外卖，甚至连自家的
TUDOR都没用的上。从尺寸上,它比ETA2892厚了近一倍.所以,有人说,从长期看，它的稳
定度和耐用度,也要强过2892很多.
4.GP:CAL.3100:GP自动芯的看家菜，连挑剔的VC都用过它，可见这2。98MM厚度机芯的实
力。1994开线制造.27钻,传统的外似销杆,内为轴承滚珠的自动摆轴,灵活的让你发躇.成
为摆脱ETA，升级自厂的入门代表做.动力储存达50 小时。另外要说的是,他的升级版33
00，在视觉效果上更加出色.
5.JLC:CAL.889:著名的889,为VC,AP,Chopard和IWC,都立下了汗马功劳.它被维修师傅誉
为简单易修，精确耐用的代表作。是真正意义上的基础机芯，设计上很适合改良。1989
开始生产，数据如下：直径26.0MM，厚： 3.25MM 31钻，动力储存为 45 小时。
6.ZENITH: EL PRIMERO:它最有影响的广告,是替ROLEX加工DAYTONA.那已经停产的自动计
时芯,为他带来了太大的宣传优势.不过话说回来,这枚现在少存的36000摆幅的原创自厂
计时芯,的确有他自己独到之处.它的大摆陀，很稳定。当年作为最超值的自厂芯，曾经
驰刹江湖。作为计时芯，它更容易加装零件，也更容易打磨升级。希望它在全线升级之
后,卖的更好.
7.SEIKO:CAL.7S26.我想，这世界上，应该没有比他更便宜，也更超值的双历自动机械芯
了。市场占有量极大的它，大多装在精工廉价的5号上。5号系列的基本款，在大陆最低
只要400块。。这价格的表，在亚洲很多低工资的区域，都生产过。而产品，往往有人一
戴就是十几二二年不修也不坏。这，是不是值得很多人去思考？我只记得拆它的时候，
它的擒纵叉，竟然是空心的。
8.OMEGA :CAL.2500同轴.有人说,他是ETA.但,我坚决否定了这一看法.因为它拥有全世界
独一无二的同轴擒纵.早以脱离了ETA的结构。现在的钟表市场，没几人敢做真正的创新
，而丹尼尔和OMEGA是豪杰！！有人,批驳同轴,我想说的是,一个新的事物,请大家给它一
个良好的生存成长，以至成熟的空间.不要,把他扼杀在嫩绿.
9.ETA:自动石英：本来，根本没它的篇幅，可谁让它有是一个最有特色的“自动”芯呢
。从日本在70年代的石英大潮后，瑞士在石英上的创新，从没真正领先过。但这芯，却
是把电池提供能源的石英芯，改进了。摆陀带来的能量，通过转换器，变成电能，推动
石英震荡。它不但有着自动表的环保和石英表的准确。还有极低的成本。瑞士人，是有
头脑。
10.PP:CAL.240.我只选PP的小摆陀款写,没原因,只因为：它更薄,看起来也更独特.那22
K金的摆陀,象征着高贵，典雅和独特.它装配在很多PP的5系列的表款中。甚至一些更顶
级的复杂款,都用它做底子.我喜欢PP。甚至，我的笔名，都很早的用了这两个字。看过
很多后，回头想想，PP的自动表，确实精彩的美伦美涣。
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这十种手动芯和十款自动芯，都是世面上不同档次的流行款。十大名芯，名者，包括了
质和量两者。无论日后机芯市场的争夺战如何激烈，这里面的一大半，是会固存的。 | t*****n
发帖数: 481 | 2 顶科普
看到的晚了
之前都是自己google学的…… |
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