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w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 2 我们这里也差不多了，十月底就很冷了
现在天黑变早得好快
我可能只能再去两次
RRG |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 3 Oct 3, 2009
The Gallary
1. 27 Years of Climbing 5.8 L warm up
这是一年多前我第一次户外lead，觉得很solid的线，是RRG beginner路线中很经典的
一条。第二次爬觉得真是easy and enjoyable，很多move都挺有意思的
2. Murano 5.10b L onsight
overhang jugs + balancy slab finish. My 3rd 5.10b onsight on lead.
3. A brief History of Climb 5.10c TR onsight.
Tricky start with overhang juggy finish
Shady Grove
真是名副其实的shady，整个wall是大角度的overhang，布满了大大小小的pocket
4. Girls Gong Wild 5.10d TR 3 takes
This is a very overhang and pumpy route. Really fun moves in a corner
P |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 4 I go to RRG almost every week when it is in season, but I always avoid
festivals like this as much as possible. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 5 周六的时候就听说我一个日本师姐这周在RRG把脚腕扭了。今天在系里看到她杵着拐杖
，问她怎么回事。她说她clean的时候，本来说要off belay，然后repel。发现自己忘
了把belay device带上去，就跟partner说，take。她以为partner已经take了，就往后
坐，结果partner没有完全take，手里还有大约20ft的slack。她发现自己越落越快，然
后在快要deck到一个ledge的时候停住了。没出大事，还是把脚扭了。btw这个jj爬了七
八年的outdoor了，还是communication出了问题。
我想起别人给我讲的另一个故事。有一次爬的人说take，结果belay的人以为他说off
belay，就真的off belay了。。。 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 6 【 以下文字转载自 Outdoors 讨论区 】
发信人: TrueCabbage (从今天开始过猪的生活), 信区: Outdoors
标 题: An accident happened 2 weeks ago in RRG
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Fri Nov 14 17:52:53 2008), 转信
I post this on behalf of pinkeverlast, she got this email from her friend:
climbers of the red,
I hate to bring the news from miguels. The two passed at global village
around monday. Ben left Miguels monday with Laura. Their plan was to climb
white-out and lower to the ledge to climb " The Man Behind the Curtain".
Tuesday afternoon Jorda |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 7 我们这里只要天气可以每周都浩浩荡荡好多人去RRG。我们去要单程6个小时，都是周五
下去周日回。你到RRG只有两个小时，周六去周日回就可以了。
试过和版上的人在RRG meetup，但好像就跟wishy一个人真正见过面。其它都是各种原
因没碰上。大家地方不同时间不同地点不同挺难的，RRG很多地方手机没信号。而且大
家都要迁就各自的partner，经常去不了一个crag。所以你最好有自己的partner，如果
联系不上的话不至于干等。
你如果有兴趣pm下你的手机号吧。现在打算下周去。 |
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y*a
发帖数: 40 | 8 这个周末看今年climbing season的照片。贴些上来算是个今年的小结。
Jun RRG, KY pic 1, 2. Pic 1 is a sport 5.9+, and pic 2 is a classic sport 5.
8
Jul Smith Rock, OR; Squamish, British Columbia, Canada
pics 3,4. This is a 400ft multi-pitch 5.9, all the way to the top of Smith
Rock
Monkey Face, Smith Rock的"地标"pic 5
Aug Lion's Head, Ontario, Canada pic 6, 7. Pic 7 is a sport 5.8
Sep 2nd trip to RRG, KY
Oct 3rd trip to RRG, KY pic 8. This is a classic trad 5.8
My 2nd trad lead |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 9 可惜Smith的季节跟RRG重叠了。只有Red Rocks跟RRG的季节差个两个月的样子还不是很
贵。我们这早春一拨一拨地跑去Red Rocks，天气暖和了就窝在RRG，再热就北边去
Ontario了。 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 10 redriverclimbing.com的主页上写: welcome home。不知道对多少人来说，The Red不
仅仅是个home crag，而是一个second home。我认识的很多人，都是在RRG遇到自己生
命中的另一半的。我们的大多数朋友，也都是RRG regulars。这个周末的Miguel's特别
拥挤喧闹，新修的厕所和浴室像个丑陋的庞然大物。熙熙攘攘的人群，半夜两三点不睡
觉的college kids，拥挤的camp site隔壁帐篷里传来的鼾声。天上的星星特别亮。回
来瞟了一眼facebook，一个朋友的status换成了I miss the bright stars...
这个season是我在Red的最后一个season了，也是specimen同学的最后一个season了。
"spesimen“这个外号是我们去年给某精壮肌肉男起的，这位同学攀岩全凭蛮力。为了
追gym某ppmm每周来gym 5 次之多。结果mm没追到，今年人家已经成功转型技术男，每
周都onsight/red point几个5.12，下个月就搬家去Boulder了，最近几次是他在RRG最
后的日 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 11 RRG确实是北美数一数二的sports climb的地方。你们要是飞过来我们可以组织各个长
周末去。这个月底我一个朋友就要从Boston过来一起去RRG。 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 12 这次本来是一个Chicago的mm要过来一起爬的，打算就一起爬5.10s了。结果她没找到
ride，又生病了，我只好临时在gym找人，最后跟三个肌肉男一起去的Red River Gorge
，想想跟不同的人学不一样的东西也不错。结果两天下来手指痛得垃圾桶都费半天劲才
打开。典型的RRG肌肉男跟我真不是一个风格：只爬overhang，不喜欢爬slab；只爬
sports不碰trad；不管再怎么overhang基本不转身不high step，就是正蹬拉上去...周
六一天爬八个pitch，七个都是不同幅度的overhang下来，周日我基本就动不了了。还
是喜欢另外一拨朋友的风格每次都是一半sports一半trad，各种路线和技巧都涉及到。
肌肉男一周爬7天，即使不爬也在gym里lift weight，爬起来基本不讲技巧，这么爬下
去稍微technical的5.11就不行了。
RRG漫山遍野的山茱萸正盛开，马褂木正在发新芽，杜鹃快要开花了，微风过去枫树的
小翅果无声地旋转落地。真好，休息的时候坐在那里空气里都是春天的甜香。我随身带
了本野花的书，翻翻居然认出来了十几种正在绽放的野花^^
4. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 13 没事。以后机会多。
RRG每次一到长周末，到处都是学校的outing club的大队伍。RRG的beginner area就那
么几个，每次都一大堆本科生在那里排队爬，一整天也爬不了几条线。我不会leading
的时候跟别人出去，一整天就挂了两条线，十几个人排队爬，我一天只爬了半条-_____
-!
等你gym爬上一段，会sports leading了，就不用排队爬别人的top rope了，攀爬会有
效率得多。没必要现在去赶集。我学完leading以后第一次跟别人出去，第一天就爬了9
条。质的区别啊。 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 14 Go to motherlode in RRG and see what is "大的overhang", or any of the
limestone caves that are dotted with 5.13s and 5.14s.
RRG is famous for overhang routes. You can climb a 5.9 big roof and get
really scared on routes such as "creature feature". Only one 5.9 move on the
entire roof but you're under a big roof and completely cannot see anything
above you |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 15 I still have a long way to go to refine my crack technique. You'd have to
live near a good climbing area to get really good. Too bad that RRG is 12-
hrs drive round-trip: not unbearable but hold you back from going more than
once a month. Plus the crack in RRG is not as good as its world-class steep
sports climbs.
I would say Smith Rock is my second favorite sports climbing area. I only
did one 5.7 trad there last time. Will try more next time, esp the Lower
Gorge if I can get a rope gun :) |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 16 太喜欢阳朔了。以前知道Red River Gorge是世界上最好的sports climbing的天堂。但
阳朔的路线绝对不比Red River Gorge差。虽然数量上目前还赶不上RRG，照阳朔现在开
线的速度，阳朔是很有潜力的。
今天去了白山。路线都很长很sustained，路线基本都在80t以上。在一条5.10a热身，
然后lead了岩狗（5.10c），TR了中国白（5.12b)和凤凰(5.12c)。第一天主要是熟悉路
线的感觉，所以只爬了四条线。休息的时候看阿邦爬。他是中国现在最好的攀岩者了吧
，最好的red point纪录是5.14d。他今年来RRG的时候江湖传言他的power endurance出
奇地好。现在知道，在阳朔这样的地方爬，你的耐力不可能不好。
天气很好，20摄氏度的样子。明天还是一个好天气：） |
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r****e
发帖数: 3109 | 17 暑假1个4354Rmb的PEK-RRG的来回票累积了近13000ASmiles,够一张美国国内单程了，感
觉很值。 |
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k**********i
发帖数: 8706 | 18 我想找一个伙伴合买stockcharts Extra
站内联系，谢谢
我主要用RRG和custom scan |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 19 I post this on behalf of pinkeverlast, she got this email from her friend:
climbers of the red,
I hate to bring the news from miguels. The two passed at global village
around monday. Ben left Miguels monday with Laura. Their plan was to climb
white-out and lower to the ledge to climb " The Man Behind the Curtain".
Tuesday afternoon Jordan and Kobes drove by the parking lot and realized Ben
's car was still there. Worried for their friend, they hiked up to the wall.
They found Ben and Laura dead |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 20 Easter weekend works best with me. We can do 2-2.5 days of climbing plus
some hiking. Rododendrom blossom should be around that time in the Mountains
too. Will be gorgeous.
If not Easter, I cannot say for sure right now. How many of you're
interested?
So far, wishy, NoTime, and Lan...awesome all-girl team, haha |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 21 I want to do the road side craig and plate techtonics in Muir Valley.
I've been thinking about these two places for a long time. However, my
usual climbing partner has been there too many times and has no insentives
to go there again. If any of you gals go with me, we can do some moderate
climbs in these areas, say 5.10 and below, with some awsome easy 5.7-5.8s
Mountains |
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p*******r
发帖数: 180 | 22 The Red, god I miss that place.
Say hi to Miguel for me if you stop by there, mention the Asian dude who
jokingly talked about opening a sushi bar across the road from his pizza
place. He'd remember my "threat" although it's been a few years. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 23 You've been climbing in Red? You're all over the places...
I camp in the Miguels' almost every time. Pizza is high in calories. Perfect
after climbing. Love it.
Everybody miss the Red and the Miguels after they move away. Mind comeing
back and climb some day? |
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p*******r
发帖数: 180 | 24 I had but not anymore. Also spent a lot of time in the New River, but if I
have
to pick one, I'd say the Red is my home crag. Too many beers were consumed,
countless cartons burned in the camp fire, many hot& buggy summer and
shivering
winter nights spent in Miguel's backyard. I remember what really dragged my
as*
out of the tent in the morning was not climbing, but the organic coffee and
the
huge $1 blueberry muffin at Miguel's.
What's your bf's name? Tall, short, lean, medium-built, long hair |
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p*******r
发帖数: 180 | 25 i wish it was, it was some moderate route in left flank, RRG. don't remember
the name. i was doing an intentional fall just for the heck of it. |
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p*******r
发帖数: 180 | 26 haha...
the echo of "f----u-----c-----k----!!!" is still in my head because i heard
it
so many times when someone fell off the route in RRG. i don't remember my
first
lead fall on a draw, but the first time i fell on a #3 cam almost scared the
cr&*(%^*&p out of me, it was in the new river. it held, otherwise i wouldn't
be
blah-blahing here..
they |
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w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 27 我昨天拿到guide book，一看9mile hiking就有点拔凉拔凉的
没背过这么重的东西走这么长路-_-
嗯，今天trip meeting了，我基本决定去了
在鼓动lan同去ing
我挺想去两周的，不过我老板估计很不乐意，所以打算8.8-8.15去一周
说起来很丢人的，上次去RRG Muir valley附近一个地方的时候，有很陡挺长的一段路
我当时就完全跟不上了，最后拖着一哥们背包带子被拽上去的。。。那还是没背多少东西 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 29 这次教训比较多。。。
这次跟8个跟我爬的难度差不多的人一起去的，lead比较多。
Sat, May23 Muir Valley
Tectonic Wall
1. Plate Tectonics 5.9+ Lead, onsight
2. Gettin Lucky in Kentucky 5.10b, TR, onsight. 因为我需要clean anchor为了保
证能上去我TR了，结果发现Tecktonic Wall明显soft rating，这个5.10b只有5.9+/5.
10a的难度。
3. 5th Bolt Faith 5.10c Lead. 只有一个动作是5.10c的难度，其余都是5.10a的难度
。名字的意思是，第五个bolt在下面是看不到的，你会以为非常run out，只有爬到跟
前了你才能看到。我觉得这个也是为什么rating是5.10c，如果不是别人告诉我这个
trick我可能不敢lead的。
Indy Wall
4. Mentor Powers 5.11b Lead. 是一个很干净的overhang crimper+指洞，即使20ft
wipper也没有什么 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 32 You guys are so brave to push limit on leads. When you start alpine routes,
you'll realize how safe cragging is compared to alpine. A twisted ankle is
the least of your fear, it is just the beginning of your epic torture. |
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z*********n
发帖数: 94654 | 33 那你们在alpine climb的时候twist ankle以后怎么办？
感觉要想serious outdoor 爬，还是得去正经上个rescue课程
, |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 34 urgh, this is probably too big a question to ask. my canned answer to such
questions is: "it depends". This is the answer I get a lot when I ask
questions, and it drives me nuts :D
Seriously though, if you want to go for alpine climbs, you'd better get some
first aid knowledge. And you'd better climb with people who have basic self
rescue technique. The best way is to learn through practicing. There are
some books that I can recommend too. But without practice, the books are
worthless. |
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z*********n
发帖数: 94654 | 35 嗯，book without practice的确是useless
最近没事干上厕所睡觉前都在翻rock climbing的基本知识的书
里边很多内容以前看的时候以为明白了，现在翻回头结合自己的实践
才发现很多东西具体是什么含义
我要去搞alpone climb，肯定得去找certified instructor正式上课才会去
否则跟着别人走，就算领队的再有经验，自己的安全还是在自己手里
some
self |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 36 That's why I don't push on leading at all. So far I haven't had any wipper
outdoors yet - very rare for a sports climber
, |
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i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 37 这么巧? 前天我也被马蜂丁了一下..我和它都对一个小指洞感兴趣, 我开始还和它客气
了一番...后来看到它要走了的意思,我就不客气把手伸过去了, 没想到它杀了个回马枪
,扎在我的小指上......幸好人没掉下来, 呵呵. |
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w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 38 啊，长见识了
guide book竟然会少写三个bolt
竟然掉树
太惊悚了 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 39 少写三个bolt是比较发指。差一个两个是很常见的 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 40 我见过更发指的guide book
号称第一次rappel距离160ft, 用了两根60m 绳子double rope rappel, 我第一个下的,
到了离rope end还有1尺的时候, anchor在我下面3ft的地方 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 41 写guidebook的估计是个大胖子，摸到地了就说绳子够长
的, |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 42 200ft和160ft差别也太大了点
多亏我体重还不错,拼命往下拉了拉,勉强把personal pro clip到下一个anchor上 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 44 那是我见过的最烂的guide book了
还不如不给数据,让我自己判断 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 45 which book is that?
BTW, check your gmail inbox. |
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r*****y
发帖数: 233 | 46 这个这个,我拍死过一个加腿长十厘米的蜘蛛,那个恶心啊~ |
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s*******e
发帖数: 3042 | 47 这个太危险了，如果你不巧是过敏体质的话，一只马蜂就够你失去意识了 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 48 我就是过敏体质，随身要带一种肌肉注射的应急针筒的。以前过敏过一次被医生勒令带的 |
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s*******e
发帖数: 3042 | 49 这个千万不能疏忽，去年我们这里一个十几岁的小男孩就因为在外头吃饭，喝了一碗海
鲜汤过敏，跑去药房买药，没来得及，死掉了。后来听说他从小都带那个针筒的，但是
因为没怎么犯过，所以也有点大意，就没有一直随身带。
带的 |
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