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MedicalCareer版 - 男士面试着装细节
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1 (共1页)
p********m
发帖数: 325
1
今天买面试的服装, 查了一些信息和大家分享。 我们这些在这里match的中国男士大
都是学术型的 ( or nerd , LOL) , 美国正装的知识不多。现在借此机会,完学一回,
下半辈子当医生时也不会总为此犯愁
Macy 这周在打折,大家要早准备 (改腰身袖长裤长都要10天左右)
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p********m
发帖数: 325
2
Tips on Buying an Interview Suit (ZT)
The suit is the vehicle by which you create a first impression, says Norman
Fryman, former CEO of The Grief Companies and current consultant to
Bidermann, manufacturers of tailored men’s clothing. He goes on to explain
that a suit’s silhouette, drape, and color provoke a conscious thought in
the mind of the recruiter of what you are all about.
Let’s face it, a recruiter not only judges your resume and communication
skills, but will be influenced by the visual image projected by your suit.
The recruiter wants your clothes to say, “I am productive, I know the rules
, I can fit in.” For this reason, you must think seriously about its
selection and purchase.
This easy checklist should help you in your selection.
Your Shopping Checklist
First, decide what type of job you’re interviewing for. What’s the
industry? Advertising jobs allow greater apparel flair than do investment
banking jobs. Sales and traders can be more expressive than those in
corporate finance; commercial bankers are more staid than investment bankers
; and Silicon Valley jobs allow even greater variations in dress.
Second, allocate a day from your busy schedule to shopping. Focus your
thoughts on the purchase of your suit. When shopping, men should wear shoes,
trousers, and a dress shirt with a collar. If you try on a suit in a t-
shirt and high-top sneakers, neither you nor your tailor will get a true
picture of the fit. Women should wear a bodysuit under their blouse if they
plan to try on blouse and jacket ensembles. A bodysuit will also eliminate
the tuck-in problem during interviews.
Third, go to a store. Try on a variety of colors, patterns, sizes, styles,
and cuts. Tell a knowledgeable sales associate that you need an interview
suit for your specific industry. Try on an expensive suit, just to get an
idea about its fit, the drape of its fabric, and the comfort of the suit and
the fabric’s finish.
Fourth, men should choose a wool suit. There are four major types of wool:
Worsted, Tropical, Flannel and Tweed. Forget tweed, especially if you have a
wide body. Concentrate on worsteds, flannels, and tropicals and their
weights. Wool blends are blends among wools and other natural fibers or
synthetics (synthetics are not natural, they are made from chemicals).
Hartmarx, Fezza, and Hugo Boss use soft flannels. Read the tag on the suit’
s sleeve to discover the fiber content. MBA Style magazine recommends that
men stick with a 100% wool suit for the interview suit. Women can choose
wool, wool blends, linen, and a variety of natural and synthetic blends that
mimic wool. Linens do not travel as well as wools, tweeds, and synthetics
— meaning they wrinkle quickly, so if you’ll be getting callbacks that
involve travel, you may wish to avoid linen.
Fifth, have a price range in mind, but try on suits with lower and higher
price points.
Sixth, try on the suit. If it doesn’t fit, don’t buy it, even if it’s on
sale. Never sacrifice fit for color, fabric, or price. Don’t get caught up
in an embarrassment over the sizes. Sure, I’d like to be a 40 Long. But I
am not. I am a 42-Long. Okay maybe even a 43. Same goes for women. Although
a model, like Pamela Anderson, is a size 6, the average American woman is a
size 10-12. As a matter of fact, the average American woman is 5 feet-4
inches tall, brown-haired, 143 pounds, with size 7.5-B shoes. Therefore,
just forget about what size the tag says, and find a garment that fits right
and projects the proper image.
Seventh, you can change a suit’s fit, but not its design. Meaning, you can
alter the sleeves and hems, but shoulders and lapels should not be changed.
By the way, any alterations should be measured by the 1/4 inch, at least.
Eighth, look in a three-way mirror, no matter how painful it might be to see
your big nose in profile, your butt, your bald spot, or the cellulite on
your calves. Now, Men should check the suit from top to bottom in relation
to the checklist below. Women can skip the part on trousers and sizes.
[suit]Your Quality Checklist
Men’s Suit Sizes
There are over 21 sizes for man’s jacket, from 36 to 48 inches, from extra
short to extra long. Try on a few jackets to find your right size and length.
Men’s Fabrics and Patterns
As noted above, choose wool. Worsted wools are lightweight for spring and
summer. Gabardine wools are heavier for fall. Wool Crepes are lightweight
with softer finishes. Flannel wools are heaviest.
Patterns for interview suits are limited to solids, stripes(pinstripe,
chalkstripe, beaded-stripe, multistripe), Glen plaids, and checks (hounds-
tooth, windowpane, and herringbone). If you’re buying a patterned suit,
check whether the stripes match up to each other at the suit’s seams.
Although they don’t have to, it’s better if they do.
The Collar
The suit should hug the back of your neck without buckling or pulling. No
more than one half inch of you dress shirt should be exposed under the suit
’s collar.
Arms and Sleeves
High armholes let your suit drape well, but your armholes should not feel
tight or binding. The bottom of the armhole should not be digging into and
irritating your armpits. Your sleeves should end about 1/2 inch above the
point where your hands meet your wrist. In other word, the sleeve should end
at the midpoint of your wrist bone. This will expose your shirt cuff, and
even your cuff links, for the extra 1/2 inch.
Men’s Lapels
Lapel styles come in high or low notches. Button your suit. The lapels
should lie flat, clinging to you chest. They should not buckle or bunch up.
Take your thumb and first finger, and rub the inside and the outside of the
lapel together. The inside and outside lapel panels should move
independently. If they don’t, your lapels have probably not been sewn, but
heat-fused with glue. Hand stitched lapels usually have 14 stitches per inch
, while machine stitched one have 8 per inch. The more stitching, the better.
Shoulders
The suit should lie flat against your shoulder blades, with some room for
growth. If a concave, river valley forms between your two shoulder blades,
the back of your suit is too wide. The jacket should flow down from your
shoulders, draping along your lower back, and break over your hips and seat
(your butt). Your suit should entirely cover your seat.
Your Waist
Can you button the suit without the buttons popping? If not, your
waist is too wide for the cut of your suit. Full cut suits, like sack suits
, have waists that are not tapered. European cut suits taper as the suit
drops from your shoulders to your seat.
The Drop
The Drop is a technical term that defines the difference between a man’s
suit size and his waist. If a suit has the current average of a six-inch
drop, it means that a 40 Regular suit will come with a pair of 34 inch waist
trousers. Athletic fit suits will usually be cut with 8 inch drops (32″
waist with 40″ jacket).
The Gorge
The Gorge is a technical term that defines the distance between the
shoulders of the suit and the first button. Gorges change from season to
season, and are just a function of personal and designer style. A high gorge
means the first button is placed high on the suit.
Check your Buttons
Tug at your buttons before you buy the suit. Make sure
they’re sewn on well, and none of them are dangling. The jacket will either
have two or three buttons, depending of the suit’s cut. Although the
fashions from Milan and Paris are pushing the three button jacket, the two
button jacket will remain the style for this Fall’s job interview schedules
. Button stances is the term used to define whether the jacket buttons are
sewn high on the jacket or low on the jacket. Men with athletic builds,
especially those MBA’s who play rugby, look better with lower button
stances. Men with beer bellies from weekly Happy Hours look better with
higher button stances. The rest of us can rely on average middle stances.
The buttons
that appear on your wrist cuffs are mostly for show. Well made (
more expensive) suits will have real buttons and button holes for your wrist
cuffs. These are called “doctors cuffs,” because doctors used to unbutton
these cuffs to roll up their sleeves to deliver babies in the subways. For
those MBA’s with a “roll up your sleeves” demeanor, buy a custom made
suit with real buttoned cuffs.
Vents
The skirt of a man’s jacket is the area below the waist. This is the
domain of your vents. A suit can have a single vent, which is a vertical
slit in the middle of the back of the skirt. Or it can have two vents, side
vents, which are vertical slits on the left side and the right side of the
suit. Or your suit can be ventless, with no vents. The average student can
wear any type of vent, it’s a matter of personal style and fit. If you have
a flat seat, you can wear a ventless jacket. Fuller seats should go with
double, side-vents. Check in a 3-way-mirror to make sure that a big butt
doesn’t make a side-vented jacket’s flap flip up like a side table. Vents
should overlap each other by about 3/4 of an inch. so your trousers do not
show through the vents.
Fusing of the Lapels
Don’t buy a fused suit for your interviews. Better
suits are constructed by sewing together the front panels of the suit (which
the recruiter sees) and the inside lining (that only your shirt sees)
Between the two panels is a layer of interlining. Sewing will allow the two
panels to move independently, allowing the suit to drape well over your body
. Sewing however costs more, so some manufacturers will heat fuse the panels
together using glue. This makes the suit stiff and harder to clean and
press. After several dry cleanings, fused suits will begin to bubble up and
pucker when the glue dries and cracks.
Pockets
Your suit should have flaps over the side pockets.
Vests In 1982, three piece suits with vests were di rigeur for interviewing.
This year, vests will be hot for casual wear, but not for interviewing.
However, if you decide to wear a vest, leave the bottom button undone, in
homage to Britain’s King Edward VII, who initiated that style. Suits today
are cut so that we may button all the buttons, but style dictates that you
leave the bottom one undone.
Men’s Trousers
When trying on your trousers, bend your knees and squat. Make sure the
crotch is not too horizontally tight or vertically short. There should not
be a horizontal crease along your lap when you are standing erect. The
trouser’s front creases for each leg should cross the middle of your
kneecap, or fall on the inside of your leg.
Trouser Rise
The rise is the vertical area between your waistband and your
crotch. If your waistband is not resting over your hips, you need a higher (
longer) rise. Men who are well endowed by their creator will either dress-
left or dress-right. Most men is the U.S. dress-left, so most suits have a
tad more width on the upper left leg of the trouser, near the crotch. And
while we are on the subject of endowment, full pleats are especially good
for those buyers with fuller abdomens. Unless you’re dressing like M.C.
Hammer, your interview suit trouser leg will have 19 inches of fabric
surrounding your knee, and 17 1/2 inches surrounding your ankle (thus you
have a tapered trouser leg). The inseam is the length between a man’s
crotch and the cuffs of his pants. The break is where the cuffs of the pants
lightly crumble into the front of the shoe.
Men’s Cuffs
Originally designed to protect the hem, cuffs are standard
fashion in business. The classic American suit has a 1.5 inch cuff, while a
European suit uses a 1.25″ cuff. If your legs are short, choose a 3/4 inch
cuff. It will look better. If you are big footed with a height of over 6
foot - 3 inches, you may wish to have cuffs that are closer to 2 inches. Ask
your tailor. If you admire Brooks Brothers, then you should have a 1.75
inch cuff on a 3 button suit, and 1.5 inches on a 2 button suit.
Men’s Belts
Your leather belt color should be coordinated with your
footwear - black with black, brown with brown. (and you socks should be
coordinated with your pants)
p********m
发帖数: 325
h***y
发帖数: 834
4
发现楼主有很多好东东,多谢分享 :)
b******a
发帖数: 704
5
多谢分享! 长知识了!

【在 p********m 的大作中提到】
: 16 pages Interview Dress Etiquette , MUST READ !!!
: http://www.execstyle.com/eBook/Interview_Dress_Etiquette.pdf
: http://www.creeksystems.com/mens_dress_etiquette.pdf

L****n
发帖数: 12932
6
good reading.
don't skim on the suit. many tailoring details (for example, arm length,
shoulder contours etc) which we don't know anything about reflect on your
taste and outlook. I spent over 1k on mine including tailoring for the
interview suit, still my favorite now after so many years and occasions.
well worth the investment.
American Classic from Hart Schaffner Marx
http://www.hartschaffnermarx.com/american-classic-suits/black-s
S**********e
发帖数: 1325
7
很费眼睛啊,呵呵,求摘要!
p********m
发帖数: 325
8
Thanks very much for your suggestions and the link.
I finally got one set from Sears, original was $ 600, but has a big discount
now. Nordstrom has the same one without any discount. I will send to
tailor for sleeve and trousers length.
1. Charcoal / dark grey
2. 100% wool
3. 2 buttons
To be honest, I don’t know anywhere other than big department stores for
men suits, and just learned the brands of Hartmarx, Fezza, and Hugo Boss
from my previous ZT post
For the shirts, I always have the problem with the shirt staying in the belt
for whole day. I learned yesterday that I should buy a slim fit, instead of
regular fit (180 cm, 85kg). I found something in Amazon “shirt stay” for
uniform, but want to ask if there any other secret to keep you shirt tucked
in and winkle free for whole day
Thanks very much

shoulder contours etc) which we don't know anything about reflect on your
taste and outlook. I spent over 1k on mine including tailoring for the
interview suit, still my favorite now after so many years and occasions.
well worth the investment.
http://www.hartschaffnermarx.com/american-classic-suits/black-s

【在 L****n 的大作中提到】
: good reading.
: don't skim on the suit. many tailoring details (for example, arm length,
: shoulder contours etc) which we don't know anything about reflect on your
: taste and outlook. I spent over 1k on mine including tailoring for the
: interview suit, still my favorite now after so many years and occasions.
: well worth the investment.
: American Classic from Hart Schaffner Marx
: http://www.hartschaffnermarx.com/american-classic-suits/black-s

L****n
发帖数: 12932
9
赞帅锅,奔一个吧,
西装真的很讲究。 以前还学过一阵裁缝, 做过两套西装, 浪费了不少银子。 这里通
常是Macy之类的department store, carry 不同的品牌, 可以多试试。 不一定越贵越
好, 最主要是合身型。 跟买车一样。 当初记得穿了Hartmax就觉得特别舒服, 以后
就一直买这个牌子, sports coat也是这个牌子。 感觉非常的sharp。

discount

【在 p********m 的大作中提到】
: Thanks very much for your suggestions and the link.
: I finally got one set from Sears, original was $ 600, but has a big discount
: now. Nordstrom has the same one without any discount. I will send to
: tailor for sleeve and trousers length.
: 1. Charcoal / dark grey
: 2. 100% wool
: 3. 2 buttons
: To be honest, I don’t know anywhere other than big department stores for
: men suits, and just learned the brands of Hartmarx, Fezza, and Hugo Boss
: from my previous ZT post

1 (共1页)
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请问一下有经验的TX,怀孕37-38周的时候还能去面试吗没买SUIT的
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