p***y
发帖数: 18037 | 1 Behold the Bobbing Fish Head
New York Times
February 8, 2011
By SAM SIFTON
http://www.nytimes.com/2011/02/09/dining/reviews/09rest.html?sr
JERRY TANG, a son of the late Chinese chef Shorty Tang, was talking about
the business of running Chinese restaurants in New York. This was last week,
during Chinese New Year, over coffee in Brooklyn.
Mr. Tang, 55, has had a long career in the city’s Chinese restaurants. His
father worked with the great restaurateur David Keh, who had Auntie Yuan, a
Hunan restaurant on First Avenue on the Upper East Side. In the 1970s, the
family owned Hwa Yuan on East Broadway in Manhattan’s Chinatown.
“I would never open a Chinese restaurant in Manhattan now,” Mr. Tang said.
“My father would never open in Manhattan now. No way. Cooking is an art,
it is balance. It is not fighting the city because you’re in Manhattan, and
paying those rents. You want good Chinese food, food like we had before,
you have to go to Queens.”
So stipulated. It’s like 1973 out there. Let’s go!
Hunan Kitchen of Grand Sichuan is a spare and modern new restaurant on Main
Street in Flushing, north of the Long Island Expressway and six blocks south
of the final stop on the 7 train. Despite its odd, intramural name, the
restaurant is devoted entirely to the cooking of Hunan, the small interior
province of China that was the birthplace of Mao Zedong.
There are only a few tables in the restaurant, most of them large, and all
of them generally crowded from about 7 p.m. on and sometimes at lunch as
well. (Reservations are recommended, but not always honored precisely on
time.) There are portraits of the chairman hung high on the walls; a Pop Mao
, rather than a political one. The lighting is bright, the service right on
the line between brusque and affable. It is clean and pretty, though not a
restaurant where anyone will ask you if you prefer sparkling water to still.
Hunan cooking is smokier and more assertive in its preparation and taste
than the cuisine of Sichuan province, to which it is often compared. It
evokes life in mountain basins and alongside tributaries of the Yangtze.
In the Hunan Kitchen of Grand Sichuan, it comes to New York at about $25 a
head. Those who recall when Chinese food first began to matter here, when it
was a kind of joy to travel to Chinatown in search of raw authenticity and
immense flavor, will discover similar joys here, though after a somewhat
longer trip from Manhattan.
Chen Gangyi, the chef and an owner, does not stoop to conquer. Cucumbers in
scallion sauce could start your meal, refreshing and sweet before a small
plate of smoked duck, or wood ear mushrooms in pungent vinegar sauce, or
sweet hacked chicken with scallions and chili oil — or all three. A basket
of “pumpkin cake” brings four small balls of mashed pumpkin rolled in
panko and fried crisp: Changsha latkes, essentially.
There is a pale yellow fish soup that evokes health and vitality, with
slices of pale and perfectly cooked tilapia and wisps of pickled cabbage.
Also a pork broth with red beans and yams that is impossible not to slurp
and finish. These both taste of life beneath a warm blanket as, outside,
sleet falls.
Giant hot pots sit on many tables, each holding a carp head the size of a
throw pillow. The fish is bathed in chili heat and a shimmering broth that
is the very essence of its chief ingredient.
“What kind of fish is that?” someone asked one evening. The waitress
paused. “Big-head fish,” she said, and turned away. Diners new to the
experience pause and blanch, take tentative bites and sips and are soon won
over. There is remarkable flavor to be had amid the trial of getting the
meat.
There is lamb cooked soft in cumin and pepper, as gamy as if eaten in a
mountainside hut and as glorious, better than the dry sautéed version of
this dish you can find in some Sichuan restaurants; less salty, more fully
flavored. Sliced cured pork comes wok-seared with dried turnips, a hash of
nutty white vegetable bits and green beans run through with bacon and flecks
of chili.
Chicken with hot red pepper, the meat diced small either on or off the bone
(state your preference with the waiter), arrives steaming with the breath of
the peppers’ heat. It tastes entirely in alignment: fire against the sweet
of diced ginger, with a faint sourness that makes the dish difficult not to
hoard.
Braised pork “Mao’s style” is a classic of the region, a thick cut of
shoulder simmered into succulence with caramel and Shaoxing wine, and served
with simple steamed baby bok choy. Star anise and five-spice round out the
flavor. Mao Zedong reportedly loved the dish, and had his cooks prepare it
for him in Beijing. You need only go to Queens.
Sturdy frogs’ legs come in a hot-and-sour sauce that owes nothing to neon
and all to vinegar and chili, a dish of velvet and as beautiful. White-
pepper smoked beef offers wok-fried beef jerky in a dry sauce of preserved
pepper — a dish out of the pantry rather than the fresh-food market. It’s
forceful and good. (A bowl of stir-fried spicy smoked pigs’ ears comes from
the same playbook, but the texture is about what you’d get running a
football through a paper shredder. It is not for freshmen.)
And plain green beans wok-fried with ground pork — “sautéed and dry,” in
the parlance of the menu — is brilliantly done, neither crisp nor mushy,
with excellent flavor.
Best of all is the restaurant’s “BBQ” fish, a whole tilapia served crisp
beneath heaps of yam and white potato, celery, peanuts, chili peppers and
string beans, and bathed in a fiery sweet sauce ticked with star anise. A
thatch of cilantro sits on top. The dish comes in a roasting pan about the
size of a disposable lasagna tray, and is placed atop a portable butane
heating element, so that it sizzles and steams attractively on the table as
guests ladle vegetables onto plates and top them with hunks of fish. (You
can get it with duck instead, or with pig trotters. This last item is a lip-
smacker, fearsomely unctuous, very rich.)
Beer goes well with this food, and it is funny to watch the waiters bring
case after case of Tsingtao out of the kitchen in back to slake the thirsts
of those who eat. (Tea goes similarly fast.) Dessert is the old pile of
orange slices, same as it ever was. After the heat and the salt, they taste
magnificent. Get out there and see for yourself.
Hunan Kitchen of Grand Sichuan
★
42-47 Main Street (Franklin Avenue), Flushing, Queens; (718) 888-0553.
ATMOSPHERE Modernist Mao.
SOUND LEVEL Conversational and pleasant.
RECOMMENDED DISHES Wood ear mushrooms, pumpkin cake, cucumber with scallion
sauce, sliced fish and sour cabbage soup, big fish head in hot pot, BBQ fish
, BBQ pigs’ feet, braised pork “Mao’s style,” lamb with cumin flavor,
sliced cured pork with dried turnips, white-pepper smoked beef, sautéed and
dry string beans.
WINE LIST Tsingtao and Coke.
PRICE RANGE Appetizers and soups, $3.95 to $8.95; entrees, $9.95 to $22.95.
HOURS Daily, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.
RESERVATIONS Recommended but imprecise. Be prepared to wait awhile.
CREDIT CARDS All major cards.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS The restaurant is at street level and is accessible
through a foyer. Restroom is in the rear of the restaurant and is quite
large.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN Ratings range from zero to four stars and reflect the
reviewer’s reaction to food, ambience and service, with price taken into
consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change. |
k*****y
发帖数: 4550 | 2 这家是做湖南菜的么？
我以前在法拉盛居然从来没去吃过
不知道他家能不能做很正宗的剁椒鱼头和炒腊肉 |
i*****g
发帖数: 2564 | 3 Their 三杯鸡 is the best in NY.
【在 p***y 的大作中提到】
: Behold the Bobbing Fish Head
: New York Times
: February 8, 2011
: By SAM SIFTON
: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/02/09/dining/reviews/09rest.html?sr
: JERRY TANG, a son of the late Chinese chef Shorty Tang, was talking about
: the business of running Chinese restaurants in New York. This was last week,
: during Chinese New Year, over coffee in Brooklyn.
: Mr. Tang, 55, has had a long career in the city’s Chinese restaurants. His
: father worked with the great restaurateur David Keh, who had Auntie Yuan, a
|
k*****y
发帖数: 4550 | 4 三杯鸡不是台菜么？
【在 i*****g 的大作中提到】
: Their 三杯鸡 is the best in NY.
|
m*****5
发帖数: 23482 | 5
你说的是另外一家故乡味吧，台菜川菜馆
【在 i*****g 的大作中提到】
: Their 三杯鸡 is the best in NY.
|
t**********4
发帖数: 2115 | |
l******i
发帖数: 257 | 7 你还住过法拉盛，那你现在住哪里？
【在 k*****y 的大作中提到】
: 这家是做湖南菜的么？
: 我以前在法拉盛居然从来没去吃过
: 不知道他家能不能做很正宗的剁椒鱼头和炒腊肉
|
i*****g
发帖数: 2564 | 8 U are right. I thought this is referring to the one by the small parking
lot. They do 湖南菜 too. |
k*****y
发帖数: 4550 | 9 我现在住NJ
【在 l******i 的大作中提到】
: 你还住过法拉盛，那你现在住哪里？
|
l******i
发帖数: 257 | 10 哪个town?
【在 k*****y 的大作中提到】
: 我现在住NJ
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k*****y
发帖数: 4550 | 11 李堡
你为啥问这么多
【在 l******i 的大作中提到】
: 哪个town?
|
l******i
发帖数: 257 | 12 你回家用洁尔阴洗洗你那张龌龊的臭嘴
【在 k*****y 的大作中提到】
: 李堡
: 你为啥问这么多
|
k*****y
发帖数: 4550 | 13 我举报你了
【在 l******i 的大作中提到】
: 你回家用洁尔阴洗洗你那张龌龊的臭嘴
|
l******i
发帖数: 257 | 14 who gives a fcuk?
【在 k*****y 的大作中提到】
: 我举报你了
|
k*****y
发帖数: 4550 | 15 你英文不好，要加强
【在 l******i 的大作中提到】
: who gives a fcuk?
|
p***y
发帖数: 18037 | 16 晕。你说的是故乡的三杯鸡台菜吧。这是湖南菜。
【在 i*****g 的大作中提到】
: Their 三杯鸡 is the best in NY.
|
j***c
发帖数: 397 | |
p***y
发帖数: 18037 | 18 They do 川菜 in addition to 台菜呗。
parking
【在 i*****g 的大作中提到】
: U are right. I thought this is referring to the one by the small parking
: lot. They do 湖南菜 too.
|
m*****5
发帖数: 23482 | 19
我感觉这个故湘味的名字很不厚道啊
【在 p***y 的大作中提到】
: 晕。你说的是故乡的三杯鸡台菜吧。这是湖南菜。
|
i*****g
发帖数: 2564 | 20 Yup, the title said 故乡味, so I thought it was the other one.
【在 m*****5 的大作中提到】
:
: 我感觉这个故湘味的名字很不厚道啊
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d***e
发帖数: 1533 | |
p***y
发帖数: 18037 | 22 哪一家名字不厚道？纽约时报这一家？
其实那个台菜是叫故乡台菜，不叫故乡味的。
【在 m*****5 的大作中提到】
:
: 我感觉这个故湘味的名字很不厚道啊
|
y**y
发帖数: 5 | 23 故湘味 > 湘水山庄 > 湘菜馆
【在 k*****y 的大作中提到】
: 这家是做湖南菜的么？
: 我以前在法拉盛居然从来没去吃过
: 不知道他家能不能做很正宗的剁椒鱼头和炒腊肉
|
m*****5
发帖数: 23482 | 24
是不是城里有一家川菜叫故乡味的
嗯，本来我想说的台菜馆也带“故乡”的，应该就是故乡台菜
太多叫故乡的了
【在 p***y 的大作中提到】
: 哪一家名字不厚道？纽约时报这一家？
: 其实那个台菜是叫故乡台菜，不叫故乡味的。
|
l*****z
发帖数: 13617 | 25 看见辣的就流口水！！
有木有吃过的给推荐一些特色菜，招牌菜？ |
m******r
发帖数: 2725 | |
m********u
发帖数: 3942 | 27 那个一大锅的鱼 还不错 里面的花生好吃。。。。
【在 l*****z 的大作中提到】
: 看见辣的就流口水！！
: 有木有吃过的给推荐一些特色菜，招牌菜？
|
m********u
发帖数: 3942 | 28 还不错
【在 m******r 的大作中提到】
: 这家剁椒鱼头怎么样？。。。
|
l*****z
发帖数: 13617 | 29 好！！叫啥名？要不安就告诉他，点那个一大锅的鱼，里面有花生的那个！！
谢谢妹子！
【在 m********u 的大作中提到】
: 那个一大锅的鱼 还不错 里面的花生好吃。。。。
|
m********u
发帖数: 3942 | 30 就是图片里倒数第三张图那个鱼 里面有土豆和花生~~~ 我这不能吃辣的人在那里也
吃得很happy
还有服务员态度也很好 总之那次大家吃的都挺开心的！~~
【在 l*****z 的大作中提到】
: 好！！叫啥名？要不安就告诉他，点那个一大锅的鱼，里面有花生的那个！！
: 谢谢妹子！
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d***s
发帖数: 7683 | |
u*******n
发帖数: 2396 | 32 听说过N久了，路过n遍了，也约同事n次了，就是一直没吃成，哈哈
朋友推荐说烤鱼很好吃。 |
p***y
发帖数: 18037 | 33 你组织个WSN观藏族服务员团去腐败吧。
【在 d***s 的大作中提到】
: 有俩藏族姐妹服务员, 长的在藏族里算好的了.
|
m********u
发帖数: 3942 | 34 我去的时候是个东北口音的女服务员啊 很可爱
【在 p***y 的大作中提到】
: 你组织个WSN观藏族服务员团去腐败吧。
|
m******r
发帖数: 2725 | 35 有面没有？
【在 m********u 的大作中提到】
: 还不错
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d***s
发帖数: 7683 | 36 在藏族里算长得好的. 实际也就是70分. 只看人不值得一去.
【在 p***y 的大作中提到】
: 你组织个WSN观藏族服务员团去腐败吧。
|
p***y
发帖数: 18037 | 37 Nana说东西也好吃，算是加分吧。
【在 d***s 的大作中提到】
: 在藏族里算长得好的. 实际也就是70分. 只看人不值得一去.
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d*******n
发帖数: 4913 | |
k********a
发帖数: 7225 | 39 我们去吃吧。我总听人说这家好吃。
【在 d***e 的大作中提到】
: 经常路过就是没吃过
|
p***y
发帖数: 18037 | 40 我看了一下这家招牌，原来是我搞错了。人家是故湘味，不是故乡味呀。
【在 m*****5 的大作中提到】
:
: 是不是城里有一家川菜叫故乡味的
: 嗯，本来我想说的台菜馆也带“故乡”的，应该就是故乡台菜
: 太多叫故乡的了
|
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D***s
发帖数: 271 | 41 我去过这家，当时也在琢磨这个名字~ :-)
这家是湖南菜，挺辣的，不错，不过对我这个四川人来讲，缺了麻味还是逊色很多~
【在 p***y 的大作中提到】
: 我看了一下这家招牌，原来是我搞错了。人家是故湘味，不是故乡味呀。
|
d*******n
发帖数: 4913 | 42
好的 你请我
【在 k********a 的大作中提到】
: 我们去吃吧。我总听人说这家好吃。
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Z*****l
发帖数: 14069 | 43 不错。
【在 p***y 的大作中提到】
: Behold the Bobbing Fish Head
: New York Times
: February 8, 2011
: By SAM SIFTON
: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/02/09/dining/reviews/09rest.html?sr
: JERRY TANG, a son of the late Chinese chef Shorty Tang, was talking about
: the business of running Chinese restaurants in New York. This was last week,
: during Chinese New Year, over coffee in Brooklyn.
: Mr. Tang, 55, has had a long career in the city’s Chinese restaurants. His
: father worked with the great restaurateur David Keh, who had Auntie Yuan, a
|
b*****8
发帖数: 1060 | |
n**m
发帖数: 561 | 45 就叫湖南烤鱼， 是他家的招牌菜
【在 l*****z 的大作中提到】
: 好！！叫啥名？要不安就告诉他，点那个一大锅的鱼，里面有花生的那个！！
: 谢谢妹子！
|
V*****8
发帖数: 33122 | |
l****a
发帖数: 243 | |
w*****e
发帖数: 385 | |
d*j
发帖数: 13780 | 49 what is the address?
thanks! |
r****n
发帖数: 179 | |
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m******r
发帖数: 2725 | |
l*****z
发帖数: 13617 | 52 征得领导同意！这周末去开吃！就点那个湖南烤鱼，腊肉，哦，还有羊肉什么的吧！ |
w****y
发帖数: 36 | 53 吃过几次， 觉得很难吃， 真不知道怎么就上了报， 不过道觉得老板娘很辉来事， 说
不定知道是记者， 给免了单。 |
f*****k
发帖数: 353 | 54 东王朝再往东一个block左右，烤鱼还不错
【在 d*j 的大作中提到】
: what is the address?
: thanks!
|
p***y
发帖数: 18037 | 55 先生呀，回帖不看帖的。我帖子里就有地址电话。
42-47 Main Street (Franklin Avenue), Flushing, Queens; (718) 888-0553.
【在 d*j 的大作中提到】
: what is the address?
: thanks!
|
d*j
发帖数: 13780 | 56 哎。。。 英文帖子一看就头大了 。。。
有时间就想灌水轻松下
【在 p***y 的大作中提到】
: 先生呀，回帖不看帖的。我帖子里就有地址电话。
: 42-47 Main Street (Franklin Avenue), Flushing, Queens; (718) 888-0553.
|
d*j
发帖数: 13780 | 57 多谢 多谢！
看来周末会遇到不少班上的人去吃啊
【在 f*****k 的大作中提到】
: 东王朝再往东一个block左右，烤鱼还不错
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p***y
发帖数: 18037 | 58 请大家挂个MITBBS牌子在胸前好认亲人。
【在 d*j 的大作中提到】
: 多谢 多谢！
: 看来周末会遇到不少班上的人去吃啊
|
d*j
发帖数: 13780 | 59 恩， 有道是 仇人见面 分外眼红啊
【在 p***y 的大作中提到】
: 请大家挂个MITBBS牌子在胸前好认亲人。
|
j******3
发帖数: 18319 | 60 赞mm冰雪聪明.
【在 p***y 的大作中提到】
: 请大家挂个MITBBS牌子在胸前好认亲人。
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t****5
发帖数: 495 | 61 Just went. Like it very much. Recommended. |
l*****z
发帖数: 13617 | 62 周六去了，人多地排队到了二门外，实在不想等（游完泳饿得受不了）。。
唉，下次再去吧！ |
t*******y
发帖数: 11968 | 63
一样啊
【在 l*****z 的大作中提到】
: 周六去了，人多地排队到了二门外，实在不想等（游完泳饿得受不了）。。
: 唉，下次再去吧！
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l*******j
发帖数: 453 | |
l*****z
发帖数: 13617 | 65 看到站着等的好多帅哥，估计就是你们一伙吧！！
【在 t*******y 的大作中提到】
:
: 一样啊
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m********u
发帖数: 3942 | 66 哼。。。。活该。。。。
【在 t*******y 的大作中提到】
:
: 一样啊
|
j***c
发帖数: 397 | 67 不一样 我们那天是星期五
【在 t*******y 的大作中提到】
:
: 一样啊
|
s********e
发帖数: 409 | 68 今天叫了外卖。
烤鱼太一般了。今后不会再点。
炒黑山羊很赞！
拿外卖的时候才过5点。里面差不多全坐满了。一般都是老外。哈哈哈哈。 |
e****8
发帖数: 329 | |
M*****5
发帖数: 3990 | 70 昨天去了，高峰时段人多的缘故，有些乱。看着门口很多人在等，我们也没太大兴致慢
慢品味，匆匆吃了几口打包回家。今天发现我们没怎么吃几口的沸腾鱼打包带回来的都
是些鱼骨头，顿时无语。。。 |
