y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 1 前几天又买了gear sling和几个biner，算是把基本的rock gear大概弄全了。
本以为可以松口气了，这几天一提醒发现snow gear还缺一大堆。基本上是：
bivy sack: 这个比较没谱，便宜的贵的都有，不知道要不要买。
snow shovel：要求要买金属的，塑料的不行。
snow picket： 最常见的是MSR Coyote，这个要买3ft的？ 2ft的要不要？
glacier rope: 这个要8mm*30m的dry rope？
stove：去年REI打折的时候买了个MSR pocket rocket，据说烧水很慢，看来要退掉。
那该买啥？Dragonfly? Whisperlite? Reactor?
pot: 多大的合适？1L?
ice screw: 上次捡了一个，估计再买一个就差不多了。
ice tool: 先不管。
ice crampon：上次减价的时候买了一个BD Cyborg step in的，这东西不知道配la
Sportiva的红鞋行不行，不过我还有一双plastic boots
avy probe和beacon，先不管，不过以后大概迟早还是 | c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 2 I strongly recommend AGAINST MSR coyote. Get a Yates instead. It's just so
much lighter and less bulky. When you carry 4-5 on your shoulder on a route
, you will appreciate. I still remember the pain of carrying 5 pickets on
the knife ridge of El Dorado. There is a cabled version. Mine is without the
cable. I just wanted a little flexibility. Not a big deal and no much
difference in price either. Even if you want to get a coyote (which, again,
I strongly not recommend), get a 2 ft version. You'
【在 y*****y 的大作中提到】
: 前几天又买了gear sling和几个biner，算是把基本的rock gear大概弄全了。
: 本以为可以松口气了，这几天一提醒发现snow gear还缺一大堆。基本上是：
: bivy sack: 这个比较没谱，便宜的贵的都有，不知道要不要买。
: snow shovel：要求要买金属的，塑料的不行。
: snow picket： 最常见的是MSR Coyote，这个要买3ft的？ 2ft的要不要？
: glacier rope: 这个要8mm*30m的dry rope？
: stove：去年REI打折的时候买了个MSR pocket rocket，据说烧水很慢，看来要退掉。
: 那该买啥？Dragonfly? Whisperlite? Reactor?
: pot: 多大的合适？1L?
: ice screw: 上次捡了一个，估计再买一个就差不多了。
| p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 3 I guess I need some suggestion on boots too. I need mountaineering boots for
summer snow/glacier ice climb in lower 48 states and some vertical
waterfall ice climbing in the winter as well.
I've been looking for ice tool as well, but thinking of waiting for a little
bit since you can always borrow ice tool, but not boots..
route
the
,
3
There
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I strongly recommend AGAINST MSR coyote. Get a Yates instead. It's just so
: much lighter and less bulky. When you carry 4-5 on your shoulder on a route
: , you will appreciate. I still remember the pain of carrying 5 pickets on
: the knife ridge of El Dorado. There is a cabled version. Mine is without the
: cable. I just wanted a little flexibility. Not a big deal and no much
: difference in price either. Even if you want to get a coyote (which, again,
: I strongly not recommend), get a 2 ft version. You'
| T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 4 Boots:
For summer snow/glacier ice climb, I would recommend la sportiva trango s
evo.
For vertical waterfall ice climing, I would recommend la sportiva nepal evo.
ice/alpine hybrid:
Tools: petzl aztars
crampons: grivel G12, G14
waterfall ice:
tools: petzl quarks, petzl nomic
crampons: petzl M10, BD cyborg...
for
little
so
on
again
a
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: I guess I need some suggestion on boots too. I need mountaineering boots for
: summer snow/glacier ice climb in lower 48 states and some vertical
: waterfall ice climbing in the winter as well.
: I've been looking for ice tool as well, but thinking of waiting for a little
: bit since you can always borrow ice tool, but not boots..
:
: route
: the
: ,
: 3
| c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 5 I can't make recommendations on vertical ice. But for general mountaineering
, you can almost never go wrong with the two most popular modles: La
Sportiva Trango S Evo and Scarpa Charmoz as long as they fit. These two are
almost the same weight, warmth, and price. If you want a little more warmth
and stiffness, consider La Sportiva Glacier and Scarpa Summit. If you want
to go even higher on the line without plastic, La Sportiva Makalu and Nepal
are the way to go. I haven't done much research on
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: I guess I need some suggestion on boots too. I need mountaineering boots for
: summer snow/glacier ice climb in lower 48 states and some vertical
: waterfall ice climbing in the winter as well.
: I've been looking for ice tool as well, but thinking of waiting for a little
: bit since you can always borrow ice tool, but not boots..
:
: route
: the
: ,
: 3
| y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 6 Thanks.
早上在backcountry买了把锹，为凑free shipping加了一个MSR 3 feet picket，看来
是弄错了。打电话过去说已经ship了，没法取消了。
真TNND的快，这个直接refuse delivery要扣邮费么？ | f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 7 试过La Sportiva Nepal EVO,不是一般的合脚,front point是没有一点heel lift,鞋底
的硬度也不错,比Trango EVO硬不少,比Spantik软一点,基本是一双鞋打天下的首选.以
后攀岩和爬山的鞋就用La Sportiva了
for
little
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: I guess I need some suggestion on boots too. I need mountaineering boots for
: summer snow/glacier ice climb in lower 48 states and some vertical
: waterfall ice climbing in the winter as well.
: I've been looking for ice tool as well, but thinking of waiting for a little
: bit since you can always borrow ice tool, but not boots..
:
: route
: the
: ,
: 3
| f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 8 Will Gadd的书推荐新手用horizontal point的crampons。如果登山攀冰兼顾，aztar还
是quark?
【在 y*****y 的大作中提到】
: 前几天又买了gear sling和几个biner，算是把基本的rock gear大概弄全了。
: 本以为可以松口气了，这几天一提醒发现snow gear还缺一大堆。基本上是：
: bivy sack: 这个比较没谱，便宜的贵的都有，不知道要不要买。
: snow shovel：要求要买金属的，塑料的不行。
: snow picket： 最常见的是MSR Coyote，这个要买3ft的？ 2ft的要不要？
: glacier rope: 这个要8mm*30m的dry rope？
: stove：去年REI打折的时候买了个MSR pocket rocket，据说烧水很慢，看来要退掉。
: 那该买啥？Dragonfly? Whisperlite? Reactor?
: pot: 多大的合适？1L?
: ice screw: 上次捡了一个，估计再买一个就差不多了。
|
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