N**D
发帖数: 10322 | 1 30+
didnt remember go there, how come spent over 300.. |
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 2 I've got 370, mostly from the credit card, I guess
【在 N**D 的大作中提到】
: 30+
: didnt remember go there, how come spent over 300..
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 3 ha, time to buy lots of new gears?
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I've got 370, mostly from the credit card, I guess
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 4 现在要买的大部分gear在REI都买不到，reward应该是一年有效吧？
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: ha, time to buy lots of new gears?
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 5 不止一年，我记得2年有效期
很多消耗品还是可以买的
我发现有些gear已经开始磨损需要淘汰更新了
前天检查我的belay biner，发现上面磨了两条沟
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 现在要买的大部分gear在REI都买不到，reward应该是一年有效吧？
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 6 Biner上的沟主要是rappel磨出来的吧。从能感觉到沟到不能用估计还得有好几个
season。Biner还是不能算消耗品。
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 不止一年，我记得2年有效期
: 很多消耗品还是可以买的
: 我发现有些gear已经开始磨损需要淘汰更新了
: 前天检查我的belay biner，发现上面磨了两条沟
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 7 rappel是主要贡献
用autolock模式belay，也挺磨的
我biner上磨出来的沟已经挺深了，因为没法定量估算这种磨损对biner强度到底有多大
影响，我还是决定今年（也许年底）把这个biner 淘汰了
毕竟，rappel的时候，biner没任何backup
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: Biner上的沟主要是rappel磨出来的吧。从能感觉到沟到不能用估计还得有好几个
: season。Biner还是不能算消耗品。
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 8 我看过一些测试数据，不是官方的。他们拿了一些磨损了1/2-1/3的biner测试，
breaking strength都超过了原来标定的值。毕竟这玩意儿都是金属家伙，一根铁丝咱
赤手空拳都拉不断呢。rappel的时候也就body weight，加上bouncing不会超过2x，2kN
到顶了。ANAM上没有读到过biner fail的案例，也从来没听说的。倒是旧的runner我比
较担心，那玩意儿不经造。
另外一个myth是关于dropped biner，测试数据表明从el cap扔到yosemite valley的
biner强度没有任何损失
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: rappel是主要贡献
: 用autolock模式belay，也挺磨的
: 我biner上磨出来的沟已经挺深了，因为没法定量估算这种磨损对biner强度到底有多大
: 影响，我还是决定今年（也许年底）把这个biner 淘汰了
: 毕竟，rappel的时候，biner没任何backup
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 9 嗯，有数据的话，还是比较让人信服的
runner的磨损肯定比biner大多了
关于dropped biner这事，比较难说，数据量不大，不能说明问题
2kN
多大
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 我看过一些测试数据，不是官方的。他们拿了一些磨损了1/2-1/3的biner测试，
: breaking strength都超过了原来标定的值。毕竟这玩意儿都是金属家伙，一根铁丝咱
: 赤手空拳都拉不断呢。rappel的时候也就body weight，加上bouncing不会超过2x，2kN
: 到顶了。ANAM上没有读到过biner fail的案例，也从来没听说的。倒是旧的runner我比
: 较担心，那玩意儿不经造。
: 另外一个myth是关于dropped biner，测试数据表明从el cap扔到yosemite valley的
: biner强度没有任何损失
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 10 关键是心里疙瘩
为了10块钱的东西，冒很大的危险，哪怕这个危险发生的可能性很小
还不如浪费淘汰了得了
2kN
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 我看过一些测试数据，不是官方的。他们拿了一些磨损了1/2-1/3的biner测试，
: breaking strength都超过了原来标定的值。毕竟这玩意儿都是金属家伙，一根铁丝咱
: 赤手空拳都拉不断呢。rappel的时候也就body weight，加上bouncing不会超过2x，2kN
: 到顶了。ANAM上没有读到过biner fail的案例，也从来没听说的。倒是旧的runner我比
: 较担心，那玩意儿不经造。
: 另外一个myth是关于dropped biner，测试数据表明从el cap扔到yosemite valley的
: biner强度没有任何损失
|
|
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 11 不如送给我，放厨房里挂炊具
丝咱
我比
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 关键是心里疙瘩
: 为了10块钱的东西，冒很大的危险，哪怕这个危险发生的可能性很小
: 还不如浪费淘汰了得了
:
: 2kN
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 12 有本事过来拿啊
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 不如送给我，放厨房里挂炊具
:
: 丝咱
: 我比
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 13 嗯，要是心理疙瘩的话还是花钱买个peace of mind吧。我一般疙瘩的东西多了去了，
轮不到疙瘩biner
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 关键是心里疙瘩
: 为了10块钱的东西，冒很大的危险，哪怕这个危险发生的可能性很小
: 还不如浪费淘汰了得了
:
: 2kN
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 14 as if you cook
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 不如送给我，放厨房里挂炊具
:
: 丝咱
: 我比
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 15 这个和挂炊具不矛盾
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: as if you cook
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 16 别以为我不敢。。。
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 有本事过来拿啊
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 17 lol
吹牛被揭穿了
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: as if you cook
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 18 今天，是骆驼
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: lol
: 吹牛被揭穿了
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 19 分我一半。不过估计她也没多少可抢的
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 别以为我不敢。。。
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 20 就是，也就上周六掉了一个locker在草地上
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 分我一半。不过估计她也没多少可抢的
|
|
|
c*****g
发帖数: 849 | 21 这个reward能兑现么？我翻了寄来的小册子就看见一个签字的地方，然后就拿着这个存
银行？
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I've got 370, mostly from the credit card, I guess
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 22 不能
你可以用来在REI购买东西
有时候在店里买东西，如果剩下不多没用完的，会变成cash给你
【在 c*****g 的大作中提到】
: 这个reward能兑现么？我翻了寄来的小册子就看见一个签字的地方，然后就拿着这个存
: 银行？
|
y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 23 去年在REI花了一千六，不过只有一百多是能拿回扣的。 |
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 24 强度不是问题，问题是反复受力下造成疲劳断裂。
高处掉下来的biner可能有冲击造成的损伤和微小裂纹（在显微镜下可以看到），想知
道是否保险要用实验设备反复加载卸载很多次，裂纹可能会逐渐扩大造成断裂。只拉伸
一次是没有问题的
2kN
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 我看过一些测试数据，不是官方的。他们拿了一些磨损了1/2-1/3的biner测试，
: breaking strength都超过了原来标定的值。毕竟这玩意儿都是金属家伙，一根铁丝咱
: 赤手空拳都拉不断呢。rappel的时候也就body weight，加上bouncing不会超过2x，2kN
: 到顶了。ANAM上没有读到过biner fail的案例，也从来没听说的。倒是旧的runner我比
: 较担心，那玩意儿不经造。
: 另外一个myth是关于dropped biner，测试数据表明从el cap扔到yosemite valley的
: biner强度没有任何损失
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 25 that is a good point.
anyway, I won't like to test the limit by myself and be on ANAM someday...
丝咱
我比
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: 强度不是问题，问题是反复受力下造成疲劳断裂。
: 高处掉下来的biner可能有冲击造成的损伤和微小裂纹（在显微镜下可以看到），想知
: 道是否保险要用实验设备反复加载卸载很多次，裂纹可能会逐渐扩大造成断裂。只拉伸
: 一次是没有问题的
:
: 2kN
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 26 Yes that's what they did, it was a formal expeiment properly done in the lab
. don't be panaroid about carabiners. I have yet to read one accident caused
by broken carabiners, among thousands of accident reports I have read. Even
those sport climbers who stress their biners like shit don't need to worry
about the biners. We have many other more serious things to worry about.
The only occasion where I would totally trash a biner other than normal wear
is after towing a Hummer with it.
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: 强度不是问题，问题是反复受力下造成疲劳断裂。
: 高处掉下来的biner可能有冲击造成的损伤和微小裂纹（在显微镜下可以看到），想知
: 道是否保险要用实验设备反复加载卸载很多次，裂纹可能会逐渐扩大造成断裂。只拉伸
: 一次是没有问题的
:
: 2kN
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 27 A report from BD may be interesting in another aspect: a rope-worn biner (ed
ge sharped) could damage the rope.
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/qclab/qc-lab-how-sk
etchy-is-a-ropeworn-sharpedged-carabiner
Actually, I had the similar thought with belay biners, as well as belay devi
ce.
lab
caused
Even
worry
wear
想知
拉伸
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: Yes that's what they did, it was a formal expeiment properly done in the lab
: . don't be panaroid about carabiners. I have yet to read one accident caused
: by broken carabiners, among thousands of accident reports I have read. Even
: those sport climbers who stress their biners like shit don't need to worry
: about the biners. We have many other more serious things to worry about.
: The only occasion where I would totally trash a biner other than normal wear
: is after towing a Hummer with it.
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 28 学过一些疲劳断裂的皮毛，很关心这个实验是怎么做的。有电子版吗发来看看？
lab
caused
Even
worry
wear
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: Yes that's what they did, it was a formal expeiment properly done in the lab
: . don't be panaroid about carabiners. I have yet to read one accident caused
: by broken carabiners, among thousands of accident reports I have read. Even
: those sport climbers who stress their biners like shit don't need to worry
: about the biners. We have many other more serious things to worry about.
: The only occasion where I would totally trash a biner other than normal wear
: is after towing a Hummer with it.
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 29 I read from two books: Craig Conally's Mountaineering Handbook and Clyde
Soles' Rock & Ice Gears. They are both good readings. I don't remember the
data but the take away message is, use your common sense and don't be
panaroid about big chunks of metal.
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: 学过一些疲劳断裂的皮毛，很关心这个实验是怎么做的。有电子版吗发来看看？
:
: lab
: caused
: Even
: worry
: wear
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 30 good point. that's one reason I don't like super small biners, especially
with fat ropes. but I guess if the belay biner is worn to that extent where
I would worry about the sharp edge, it's definitely time to leave it as a
rap ring back up. I am not THAT cheap.
ed
devi
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: A report from BD may be interesting in another aspect: a rope-worn biner (ed
: ge sharped) could damage the rope.
: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/qclab/qc-lab-how-sk
: etchy-is-a-ropeworn-sharpedged-carabiner
: Actually, I had the similar thought with belay biners, as well as belay devi
: ce.
:
: lab
: caused
: Even
|
|
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 31 I actually worried more about my belay device than belay biner
they were both worn a lot, but the belay device really had a sharper(althoug
h not very much) edge than belay biner.
where
(
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: good point. that's one reason I don't like super small biners, especially
: with fat ropes. but I guess if the belay biner is worn to that extent where
: I would worry about the sharp edge, it's definitely time to leave it as a
: rap ring back up. I am not THAT cheap.
:
: ed
: devi
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 32 I read Craig's book many times, can't recall dropped biner test
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I read from two books: Craig Conally's Mountaineering Handbook and Clyde
: Soles' Rock & Ice Gears. They are both good readings. I don't remember the
: data but the take away message is, use your common sense and don't be
: panaroid about big chunks of metal.
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 33 why don't u get new ones since u r already worried about them?
althoug
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: I actually worried more about my belay device than belay biner
: they were both worn a lot, but the belay device really had a sharper(althoug
: h not very much) edge than belay biner.
:
: where
: (
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 34 not to the degree I should retire them now
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: why don't u get new ones since u r already worried about them?
:
: althoug
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 35 now i'm worried about ur partner
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: not to the degree I should retire them now
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 36 I use grigri for sport climbing now. It doesn't have any sharp edges. I
belay my second with a reverso 3 exclusively, it doesn't have sharp edges
when it's in autolock mode. When I belay a leader on an alpine climb, they
shouldn't take a fall :), so I am good.
althoug
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: I actually worried more about my belay device than belay biner
: they were both worn a lot, but the belay device really had a sharper(althoug
: h not very much) edge than belay biner.
:
: where
: (
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 37 my reverso 3 is still good on high friction side, that why I don't worry
about it now.
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I use grigri for sport climbing now. It doesn't have any sharp edges. I
: belay my second with a reverso 3 exclusively, it doesn't have sharp edges
: when it's in autolock mode. When I belay a leader on an alpine climb, they
: shouldn't take a fall :), so I am good.
:
: althoug
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 38 btw: I am curious that you did not get a cinch. It is better than gri-gri on
almost every aspect. I believe petzl will announce the next generation of g
rigri very soon...
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I use grigri for sport climbing now. It doesn't have any sharp edges. I
: belay my second with a reverso 3 exclusively, it doesn't have sharp edges
: when it's in autolock mode. When I belay a leader on an alpine climb, they
: shouldn't take a fall :), so I am good.
:
: althoug
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 39 1. Cinch is a bit lighter. It's a pro, true.
2. Cinch takes a wider range of rope diameter. It's insignificant for me. I
do not use thin rope when I use a grigri/cinch.
3. grigri has a longer lever. it's much more smooth when you rap on single
strand, especially with the pig (haul bag)
4. Cinch is harder to use, it's very easy to screw up. Lots of people
complain about it.
I have read tons of reviews on supertopo, and the above 4 issues are
basically the concensus. Majority wall climbers use Gri
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: btw: I am curious that you did not get a cinch. It is better than gri-gri on
: almost every aspect. I believe petzl will announce the next generation of g
: rigri very soon...
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 40 agree especially with 3
if you use grigri only for aid climb, probably it is a good choice.
I
cinch
gri
of
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 1. Cinch is a bit lighter. It's a pro, true.
: 2. Cinch takes a wider range of rope diameter. It's insignificant for me. I
: do not use thin rope when I use a grigri/cinch.
: 3. grigri has a longer lever. it's much more smooth when you rap on single
: strand, especially with the pig (haul bag)
: 4. Cinch is harder to use, it's very easy to screw up. Lots of people
: complain about it.
: I have read tons of reviews on supertopo, and the above 4 issues are
: basically the concensus. Majority wall climbers use Gri
|
|
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 41 I use grigri mostly for aid climb. I bring it on sport cragging too, so that
people can hangdog.
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: agree especially with 3
: if you use grigri only for aid climb, probably it is a good choice.
:
: I
: cinch
: gri
: of
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 42 i hate using grigri to lower ppl much heavier than me
it's quite a workout:)
that
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I use grigri mostly for aid climb. I bring it on sport cragging too, so that
: people can hangdog.
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 43 If anyone wants to be hanging dog, simply tie a munter mule on regular belay
device and leave him/her there (belay from floor anchor)
lol
that
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I use grigri mostly for aid climb. I bring it on sport cragging too, so that
: people can hangdog.
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 44 多练练就好了
熟能生巧
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: i hate using grigri to lower ppl much heavier than me
: it's quite a workout:)
:
: that
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 45 it'd be a workout for you to lower anyone, I guess, :D
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: i hate using grigri to lower ppl much heavier than me
: it's quite a workout:)
:
: that
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 46 呼唤厚道
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: it'd be a workout for you to lower anyone, I guess, :D
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 47 把体重报上来大家鉴定一下？lol
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 呼唤厚道
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 48 "dude, if you don't make that move, I am gonna tie you off and escape the
belay..." haha
belay
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: If anyone wants to be hanging dog, simply tie a munter mule on regular belay
: device and leave him/her there (belay from floor anchor)
: lol
:
: that
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 49 dude, if you don't make that damn move, I'm gonna cut the fucking rope! Oh,
wait, it's my friggin' rope...
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: "dude, if you don't make that move, I am gonna tie you off and escape the
: belay..." haha
:
: belay
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 50 我用ATC的时候倒没觉得放人下来累，估计是习惯了
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 把体重报上来大家鉴定一下？lol
|
|
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 51 把绳子在身上绕半圈，增加摩擦。make sure your shirt is a piece of crap, of
course.
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 我用ATC的时候倒没觉得放人下来累，估计是习惯了
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 52 都够狠的
我最近奋斗一条线，n次了，每次都take一次
搭档总是在我准备爬的时候说，放心吧，我其实根本没在belay你，所以你千万别掉，
死也要上去
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: "dude, if you don't make that move, I am gonna tie you off and escape the
: belay..." haha
:
: belay
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 53 再次证明变速比匀速累
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 我用ATC的时候倒没觉得放人下来累，估计是习惯了
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w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 54 不怕闪了腰？
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 把绳子在身上绕半圈，增加摩擦。make sure your shirt is a piece of crap, of
: course.
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 55 You tell him next time: one professional to another, from this height, it
won't kill me
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 都够狠的
: 我最近奋斗一条线，n次了，每次都take一次
: 搭档总是在我准备爬的时候说，放心吧，我其实根本没在belay你，所以你千万别掉，
: 死也要上去
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 56 ATC is very good for gym ropes. XP grips too much.
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 我用ATC的时候倒没觉得放人下来累，估计是习惯了
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 57 tried grigri to lead belay one night, feels very awkward, maybe need more
practice on that. |
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 58 you need to hold the cam with your pinky or palm when paying out the rope.
【在 y*****y 的大作中提到】
: tried grigri to lead belay one night, feels very awkward, maybe need more
: practice on that.
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i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 59 dropped binner 你马上测强度应该没有什么问题, concern的是drop可能产生的微裂缝
会随时间在金属晶体里面生长....不过这个生长速度大概没有人测过..也许只是理论忽
悠, but who knows..
2kN
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 我看过一些测试数据，不是官方的。他们拿了一些磨损了1/2-1/3的biner测试，
: breaking strength都超过了原来标定的值。毕竟这玩意儿都是金属家伙，一根铁丝咱
: 赤手空拳都拉不断呢。rappel的时候也就body weight，加上bouncing不会超过2x，2kN
: 到顶了。ANAM上没有读到过biner fail的案例，也从来没听说的。倒是旧的runner我比
: 较担心，那玩意儿不经造。
: 另外一个myth是关于dropped biner，测试数据表明从el cap扔到yosemite valley的
: biner强度没有任何损失
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