p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 1 一个冬天没去Red，这周终于可以去了。也不管天气预报周日是100%的降水概率，不去
实在憋得不行了。这次因为中途有人bail，最后成行的时候六个人里面只有一个我认识
，另外还有三个人根本不能lead。
Mar 27 Funk Rock City
1. Warm up on Cruising Lane 5.10a L, onsight
High first bolt. Since I'm short, putting the draw on the first bolt
involved quite some sketchy moves. I put in a #1 cam before reaching the
first bolt. Fun crimpy moves before a small traverse on an overhang near the
finish. This was Frank's first sports climb ever after climbing crack in
the Gunks for over 30 years. Seemed that |
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 2 Great trip. So many climbs in two days. |
r******h
发帖数: 809 | 3 哎，我们这里才30%的降水概率，才2个小时的车程，就没人愿意去了，伤心啊...
the
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: 一个冬天没去Red，这周终于可以去了。也不管天气预报周日是100%的降水概率，不去
: 实在憋得不行了。这次因为中途有人bail，最后成行的时候六个人里面只有一个我认识
: ，另外还有三个人根本不能lead。
: Mar 27 Funk Rock City
: 1. Warm up on Cruising Lane 5.10a L, onsight
: High first bolt. Since I'm short, putting the draw on the first bolt
: involved quite some sketchy moves. I put in a #1 cam before reaching the
: first bolt. Fun crimpy moves before a small traverse on an overhang near the
: finish. This was Frank's first sports climb ever after climbing crack in
: the Gunks for over 30 years. Seemed that
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 4 赞 5.10b Trad leader!!
我现在5.7都还战战兢兢...
the
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: 一个冬天没去Red，这周终于可以去了。也不管天气预报周日是100%的降水概率，不去
: 实在憋得不行了。这次因为中途有人bail，最后成行的时候六个人里面只有一个我认识
: ，另外还有三个人根本不能lead。
: Mar 27 Funk Rock City
: 1. Warm up on Cruising Lane 5.10a L, onsight
: High first bolt. Since I'm short, putting the draw on the first bolt
: involved quite some sketchy moves. I put in a #1 cam before reaching the
: first bolt. Fun crimpy moves before a small traverse on an overhang near the
: finish. This was Frank's first sports climb ever after climbing crack in
: the Gunks for over 30 years. Seemed that
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 5 I never led any 5.10s trad.
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: 赞 5.10b Trad leader!!
: 我现在5.7都还战战兢兢...
:
: the
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 6 刚想说你们都不用warm up的啊
再一看10a是warm up...
the
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: 一个冬天没去Red，这周终于可以去了。也不管天气预报周日是100%的降水概率，不去
: 实在憋得不行了。这次因为中途有人bail，最后成行的时候六个人里面只有一个我认识
: ，另外还有三个人根本不能lead。
: Mar 27 Funk Rock City
: 1. Warm up on Cruising Lane 5.10a L, onsight
: High first bolt. Since I'm short, putting the draw on the first bolt
: involved quite some sketchy moves. I put in a #1 cam before reaching the
: first bolt. Fun crimpy moves before a small traverse on an overhang near the
: finish. This was Frank's first sports climb ever after climbing crack in
: the Gunks for over 30 years. Seemed that
|
s****t
发帖数: 746 | 7 then what's the mean of "TR"?
I thought it was trad
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: I never led any 5.10s trad.
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 8 top rope...
【在 s****t 的大作中提到】
: then what's the mean of "TR"?
: I thought it was trad
|
s****t
发帖数: 746 | 9 haha, oh yeah, should be that:D
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: top rope...
|
N****e
发帖数: 44 | 10 So many routes you had climbed in a day and half. I only climbed 4 routes
and called it a day. Really need some systemic endurance training.
the
in
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: 一个冬天没去Red，这周终于可以去了。也不管天气预报周日是100%的降水概率，不去
: 实在憋得不行了。这次因为中途有人bail，最后成行的时候六个人里面只有一个我认识
: ，另外还有三个人根本不能lead。
: Mar 27 Funk Rock City
: 1. Warm up on Cruising Lane 5.10a L, onsight
: High first bolt. Since I'm short, putting the draw on the first bolt
: involved quite some sketchy moves. I put in a #1 cam before reaching the
: first bolt. Fun crimpy moves before a small traverse on an overhang near the
: finish. This was Frank's first sports climb ever after climbing crack in
: the Gunks for over 30 years. Seemed that
|
|
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 11 4 long routes?
【在 N****e 的大作中提到】
: So many routes you had climbed in a day and half. I only climbed 4 routes
: and called it a day. Really need some systemic endurance training.
:
: the
: in
|
N****e
发帖数: 44 | 12 medium long, about 70-100 ft each.
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 4 long routes?
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 13 要是long approach的话，一天4 pitch也差不多了
【在 N****e 的大作中提到】
: medium long, about 70-100 ft each.
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 14 你都爬那么难的路线。要是lead 5.11的话，我最多一天两三条也就废掉了。
TR的话就不care了。
【在 N****e 的大作中提到】
: medium long, about 70-100 ft each.
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 15 My record was 9 routes on day one, and completely dead on day 2 and couldn't
even get started on a 5.8...
【在 N****e 的大作中提到】
: So many routes you had climbed in a day and half. I only climbed 4 routes
: and called it a day. Really need some systemic endurance training.
:
: the
: in
|
q*c
发帖数: 17993 | 16 赞。。。
the
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: 一个冬天没去Red，这周终于可以去了。也不管天气预报周日是100%的降水概率，不去
: 实在憋得不行了。这次因为中途有人bail，最后成行的时候六个人里面只有一个我认识
: ，另外还有三个人根本不能lead。
: Mar 27 Funk Rock City
: 1. Warm up on Cruising Lane 5.10a L, onsight
: High first bolt. Since I'm short, putting the draw on the first bolt
: involved quite some sketchy moves. I put in a #1 cam before reaching the
: first bolt. Fun crimpy moves before a small traverse on an overhang near the
: finish. This was Frank's first sports climb ever after climbing crack in
: the Gunks for over 30 years. Seemed that
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 17 我的记录是 15 pitches a day, about 5~6 routes, 是和一个用9.2 rope trad lead
的疯子在gunks. 当然我只是follower. 那天基本就是在爬和走向爬的路上. 他甚至不
吃午饭, 只设置2个anchors, 不怎么说话, 每个pro之间隔老远, 爬得我心惊肉跳的..
幸好都只是5.9以下.......最后一条线是在月色下完成的...还是很有意境的说....
但是后来再也没有和他爬过, 尽管他也说我们合作很impressive......我还是比较考虑
我的小命.....
't
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: My record was 9 routes on day one, and completely dead on day 2 and couldn't
: even get started on a 5.8...
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 18 Sounds like what exactly we did in Red Rocks during christmas racing up
things in Oak Creek Canyon on Eagle Wall.
Sounds like you're really good with transition etc. 15 pitches is not easy
for anyone. My record for easy climbs (5.8 and below trad) was 13 pitches,
and that was in Squamish with 15 hr of daylight.
lead
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: 我的记录是 15 pitches a day, about 5~6 routes, 是和一个用9.2 rope trad lead
: 的疯子在gunks. 当然我只是follower. 那天基本就是在爬和走向爬的路上. 他甚至不
: 吃午饭, 只设置2个anchors, 不怎么说话, 每个pro之间隔老远, 爬得我心惊肉跳的..
: 幸好都只是5.9以下.......最后一条线是在月色下完成的...还是很有意境的说....
: 但是后来再也没有和他爬过, 尽管他也说我们合作很impressive......我还是比较考虑
: 我的小命.....
:
: 't
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 19 Red Rock 晚上允许爬么? 我们有夏天(maybe July)去RR爬晚场的想法,
还不知道是不是有可能. 从午夜到黎明应该不热了把? 不知道会不会冷...
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: Sounds like what exactly we did in Red Rocks during christmas racing up
: things in Oak Creek Canyon on Eagle Wall.
: Sounds like you're really good with transition etc. 15 pitches is not easy
: for anyone. My record for easy climbs (5.8 and below trad) was 13 pitches,
: and that was in Squamish with 15 hr of daylight.
:
: lead
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 20 We got overnight permit, which is easy for backcountry routes like Eagle
Wall
I've no idea about other areas.
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: Red Rock 晚上允许爬么? 我们有夏天(maybe July)去RR爬晚场的想法,
: 还不知道是不是有可能. 从午夜到黎明应该不热了把? 不知道会不会冷...
|
|
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 21 cool, which means it's doable ! thanks.
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: We got overnight permit, which is easy for backcountry routes like Eagle
: Wall
: I've no idea about other areas.
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 22 It's possible, but I wouldn't do it simply for safy reasons.
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: cool, which means it's doable ! thanks.
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 23 Imaging a picture that climbing under the full moon and sparking sky,
hanging above hundreds feet of the beautiful desert to wait the red red
sunrise, I would like to pay the safety price.
well, I know, it's meaningless and just a YY at present.
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: It's possible, but I wouldn't do it simply for safy reasons.
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 24 I would recommond the "Red Rocks Casino and Hotels", which is right outside
of Red Rocks, and you can see the same sunrise from the top floor after a
night's playing in safty
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: Imaging a picture that climbing under the full moon and sparking sky,
: hanging above hundreds feet of the beautiful desert to wait the red red
: sunrise, I would like to pay the safety price.
: well, I know, it's meaningless and just a YY at present.
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 25 well...then..I can simply google "Red Rock sunrise youtube"....or...use maye
to make one...lol
outside
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: I would recommond the "Red Rocks Casino and Hotels", which is right outside
: of Red Rocks, and you can see the same sunrise from the top floor after a
: night's playing in safty
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 26 Ideally I would prefer to warm up on 5.8/9. When it's outdoors you've got to
deal with what's available there. The 5.10a warm up wasn't that trivial for
me
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 刚想说你们都不用warm up的啊
: 再一看10a是warm up...
:
: the
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 27 It reminds me of my boyfriend who usually only climbs 3 routes a day plus a
warm up. He climbs once a month and that does affect his endurance a lot.
I've been running laps on 5.10+/5.11s in the gym a lot during the past half
a year to improve my endurance of leading full pitches outdoors, since 80-
100ft route would be similar to 2-3 laps on the gym wall. Supprisingly such
exercise improves my ability on 5.11+/5.12 routes as well.
My bf says once I can climb at his level he'll start feeling pre
【在 N****e 的大作中提到】
: So many routes you had climbed in a day and half. I only climbed 4 routes
: and called it a day. Really need some systemic endurance training.
:
: the
: in
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 28 that's what el cap climbers do
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: Imaging a picture that climbing under the full moon and sparking sky,
: hanging above hundreds feet of the beautiful desert to wait the red red
: sunrise, I would like to pay the safety price.
: well, I know, it's meaningless and just a YY at present.
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 29 很强大
你们不饿吗
lead
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: 我的记录是 15 pitches a day, about 5~6 routes, 是和一个用9.2 rope trad lead
: 的疯子在gunks. 当然我只是follower. 那天基本就是在爬和走向爬的路上. 他甚至不
: 吃午饭, 只设置2个anchors, 不怎么说话, 每个pro之间隔老远, 爬得我心惊肉跳的..
: 幸好都只是5.9以下.......最后一条线是在月色下完成的...还是很有意境的说....
: 但是后来再也没有和他爬过, 尽管他也说我们合作很impressive......我还是比较考虑
: 我的小命.....
:
: 't
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 30 想起来就冷啊
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: Imaging a picture that climbing under the full moon and sparking sky,
: hanging above hundreds feet of the beautiful desert to wait the red red
: sunrise, I would like to pay the safety price.
: well, I know, it's meaningless and just a YY at present.
|
|
|
q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 31 sounds a great trip!
i haven't seriously climbed outdoors since last thxgiving, will have first
trip
to yosemite soon but really dread about trad leading again...ahhh
the
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: 一个冬天没去Red，这周终于可以去了。也不管天气预报周日是100%的降水概率，不去
: 实在憋得不行了。这次因为中途有人bail，最后成行的时候六个人里面只有一个我认识
: ，另外还有三个人根本不能lead。
: Mar 27 Funk Rock City
: 1. Warm up on Cruising Lane 5.10a L, onsight
: High first bolt. Since I'm short, putting the draw on the first bolt
: involved quite some sketchy moves. I put in a #1 cam before reaching the
: first bolt. Fun crimpy moves before a small traverse on an overhang near the
: finish. This was Frank's first sports climb ever after climbing crack in
: the Gunks for over 30 years. Seemed that
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 32 我在路上肯三明治....
他下来后在餐馆对着waitress放绿光....
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 很强大
: 你们不饿吗
:
: lead
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 33 How come you let Yosemite sitting there and don't climb it...:)
I would feel depressed without climbing outdoors for two weeks
【在 q*n 的大作中提到】
: sounds a great trip!
: i haven't seriously climbed outdoors since last thxgiving, will have first
: trip
: to yosemite soon but really dread about trad leading again...ahhh
:
: the
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 34 waitress很hot吗？
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: 我在路上肯三明治....
: 他下来后在餐馆对着waitress放绿光....
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 35 很有肉..
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: waitress很hot吗？
|
