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发帖数: 1130 | 1 I was inspired by 阿拉斯加 – 雪山，冰川，燃烧的苔原 (by DeepCreek, bbs.
wenxuecity.com/alaska/299416.html) , visited Alaska for the first time. I
arrived 9/10, and left 9/18. It was a driving tour, 1600 miles in 9 days, 2
night tent camp in wonder lake, 2 night in hostel, 4 nights are car camping.
I flew in Fairbanks --> Denali --> ANC--> Seward --> Cooper Landing -->
Valdez --> Denali Hwy --> Denali lottery driving tour to Wonder lake -->
Fairbanks --> Chena hot spring --> Flew out FAI
I opt out cruise, I think it's right decision due to the heavy rain and wind
in Seward/Valdez.
the trail I hike:
1)The Alpine Trail which runs steeply up Thorofare Ridge in strong wind, and
trail is covered with snow. only me and the ranger.
2) upper Russian lake trail. I didn't record how many miles I hike, it
should be 4 miles one way. The signpost doesn't show milepost. Far away, I
can see a glacier, the shape is quite similar to Exit Glacier. didn't see a
soul on the trail, but some mountain bike track high up in the mountain. a
lot of bushwhack and I get wet 100% here.
3) McKinley bar trail, start at 9 and back 11:45am
4) walk to reflection pond from campground. I wish I catch the shuttle. With
tripod, it's a long hike.
About wildlife:
1)in Denali, saw grizzly 3 times , 14 Dall sheep in the river valley, 4
wolfs, 1 bull moose, couple of ptarmigan, no caribou.
2)in Kincaid Park, 3 cow moose and the calf.
3)2 Caribou in Denali Hwy
For photography, the memorable spot:
1) reflection pond in Denali, sunrise/sunset in Wonder Lake campground
2) 5 mile south of Copper center on Richardson Hwy
3) somewhere close to Hope cut-off on Seward Hwy
4) Matanuska Glacier, not inside the private property, but on the recreation
area (right by the hwy)
Turnagain arm, Denali Hwy, Park Hwy, Thomas Pass, Polychrome in Denali
supposed to be very good, but it's raining hard or fall color pass the peak
already.
Temperature wise, lowest temperature is in Wonder lake (15F), Fairbanks is
pretty mild(30-60F), Seward and Valdez is raining, luckily 3 days in Denali
is sunny. it snows from 9/7-9/9 in Denali, and park road after salvage river
close temporally. Other than that, it's pretty warm in day time,
particularly in Fairbanks, it's about 55 degree during daytime.
No mosquito in Denali NP, but a lot of them in the south viewpoint on Park
Hwy, and in Seward/exit Glacier. No mosquito in Valdez (maybe due to heavy
rain).
the only possible chance to see northern light is 9/10 night (15F) at wonder
lake, but too tired and cold to get up. Some guy in the park said they saw
it. I followed this site for the forecast: http://www.gi.alaska.edu/AuroraForecast. it's level 1 when I was at Fairbanks.
I end up wear my hiking boot, instead of trail running shoe. Some snow
covered on trail in Denali. And in cooper landing's Russin River trail, I
get wet 100%, so the Vasque Breeze Gore-Tex Hiking Boots make my foot
comfortable.
Regarding food, I brought my Primus TiLite Stove, I am so glad I bring this.
It's cold at Wonder Lake.
about the timing, 9/9-18 is good time because less visitor, The two hostel I
stayed, I didn't make reservation online, just walk in. Gift shop cut price
to 50%. The down side is the fall color pass the peak. Next time I will do
it around Labor day weekend. Robin said the most impressive place is on
Dalton Hwy (during labor day weekend) -- it might due to fall color is long
gone in Denali at 9/10).
for the fall color, Fairbanks (9/17-18) and 20 mile south on Park Hwy is in
peak; 9/14-16 Thomas pass on Richarson Hwy, Matanuska Glacier on Glennallen
Hwy, Hope cut-off on Seward Hwy is slightly pass the peak; Chena hot spring
road(9/17), Denali Hwy(9/16), Denali National Park (9/9) pass the peak.
Most memorable moment: sunset by Reflection pond on 9/17, The park close for
the season on that day. I can claim I am the last visitor in the park. I
left wonder lake around 8:45pm, and back to park entrance around 11pm. A
true solitude experience.
The expense: for flight ticket, I use AA mileage, 25k miles for round trip
from east coast; for car, I rent mini-suv for $220/9 days from avis; for gas
, It cost roughly $250 for 1600 mile driving. gas price is average $4/gallon
, but $4.7/gallon at entrance of Denali park. 2 night hostel are $25/night.
camper's bus plus two night tent camping at wonder lake is about $80. a
seafood dish is ranging $20-35. If I put flight ticket aside, the total cost
is about $800.
people always said to Alaska is a life-time experience. It's true and not
true. It's true because of its exceptional beauty; it's not true because it'
s not that hard, and not that expensive (if you opt out cruise or flight). I
was mis-leading by "life-time experience" so it take me years to visit that
land. Now I see it, I will re-visit pretty soon. |
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