S******s
发帖数: 5376 | 1 I created this for those of you who are just entering into this extreme
sport as a reference guide of products and techniques. I know there are a
lot of experienced jiggers here but I figured I would post it up anyway for
those that may just be starting.
When I decided to start jigging years back I got my start from PM’ing many
board members such as Kilsong, Randy & Sami at Anglers Pro Shop and Paul
from JPR Rods as he built me my first jigging rod. The wealth of knowledge
on the boards is amazing. I thought that I would try to give back to the
board by posting this thread on my jigging techniques and gear in hopes that
I may help someone who has just started.
About me … I started at a young age as a dedicated big game fisherman
chasing larger tunas and sharks, summers were shark tournaments and days on
the water with family. I have fished a lot of the world due to my business
trips so I have seen many different techniques and learned from many people.
I try to spend as much time on the water as I can and I’ve had my share of
heartbreaks but I’ve landed my fair share of huge fish as well. I am not a
professional and I don’t claim to have all the answers but I do know that
with the right guidance you can really shorten your learning curve in this
exciting sport.
I hope you all enjoy the thread and I hope maybe you can pick up one thing
that will make your trips more successful one
The first item is decide your style. Do you jig yo-yo style or jerk crank
style.
Gmans definition may not be right but they are mine LOL
Yo Yo – The technique used by most of the northeast fleet where you cast
your jigs away from boat and leave them at the called out depth where fish
are being marked. You raise your longer rod tip up and down in long strokes
to entice a bite. Very effective and deadly.
Jerk Crank or commonly reffered to speed jigging or vertical jigging. This
is where you will drop your jig to bottom and rip your jig through the
entire water column in a rhythmic, fast paced style. This is my style and
what I will be discussing on this site. This style get more of a reactionary
bite from the jig ripping through the water column
I will cover this style here today | S******s
发帖数: 5376 | 2 Reel Choices Spinning
Probably the most asked question is about which reels to use. The general
rule of thumb is you should use a lower gear for jigging and a higher gear
for popping. The lower gear in the jerk crank style will allow you to really
rip your jig up through the water column with force from the depths and
also aid you in fighting your beast and will make life very easy on you. You
can however jig with a higher gear reel but it is not recommended. They
make lower geared reel specifically for jigging/power that why they call
them PG models. The higher geared reels are made for popping and keeping a
lure working the whole retrieve.
Basically you have two choices with reels spinning or conventional.
Personally I am deadly with spinning gear and I am absolutely dorky with
conventional reels. I cant get the motion down with conventional reels so I
stick to spinning reels LOL. Both have pros and cons but ultimately in
fishing is confidence wins whether it is about knots, really or jigs.
Spinning gear. Its pretty simple they are all one speed and you should try
to find one that you can use in the 4.9:1-4.4:1 gear range.
*****I am listed items in Price order *******
TOP SHELF INVESTMENT Spinning Reels – My first choices from $600-$1,000
SHIMANO STELLA - JPD or Japanese Domestic Models
1. Stella 20000 at 4.4:1, 55 pounds of drag,
2. Stella 10000PG at 4.9:1 and 55 pounds of drag
3. Stella 8000 at 4.9:1 and 55 pounds of drag
SHIMANO STELLA USA model
1. Stella 20000 at 4.4-1 and 55 pounds of drag
2. 80000SW-PG which is 4.9:1 and 55 pounds of drag
I love my Stellas and personally feel they are the best however there are
other manufactures that make great reels such as …
1. Accurate Twin Spin SR 30L at 4:1 and 40 pounds of drag
2. Accurate Twin Spin SR 20 at 5:1 and 30 pounds of drag
3. Diawa Saltiga Z -6000 at 4.3:1 and 33 pounds of drag
MIDDLE OF THE ROAD $200-$399
1. Shimano Saragosa 18000 at 4.9:1 and 40 pounds of drag
2. Quantum Cabo 80PT at 4.9:1 and 30 pounds of drag
3. Shimano Twinpower 10000
ENTRY LEVEL just something to get you in the game
1. Shimano Spheros 14000
2. Penn Sportfisher SS 950 at 4.2:1
3. Quantum Boca 80 at 4.9:1
Tip if you can afford to wait to save and get a top shelf reel I would
highly suggested it as they are a long term investment that will pay
dividends long term and besides you will burn through about 3 entry level
reels which could pay for your top shelf reel and if you ever need to resell
your reels they will sell close to retail | S******s
发帖数: 5376 | 3 Reel Choices Conventional
I am not an overhand/conventional jigger although I do have expeiences
trying all of the reels mentioned below
There are many things you should consider when purchasing a conventional
reel for jigging. The first would be 1 speed or two. Perosnally I always
like a two speed reel in case I do hook up to that fish of a lifetime having
the lower gear does make a difference. The other factor would be to get a
narrow reel so it makes your outfit light and effective and doesn’t give
you any wobble when jigging. Here are some reel I would suggest
TOP END INVESTMENT Conventional Reels – My first choices from $600-$1,000
1. Accurate Boss 665N 2 speed
2. Shimano Ocea Jigger 4000-5000
3. John Baker 6-12
4. Alutecnos Gorilla 12-20
5. Studio Mark Blue Heaven L50
6. New Jigging Master Reels
SECOND TIER OF REELS are all great reel just lower on price point
1.Saltiga 40-50 – Kilsongs has caught probably more fish than any other
reel made
2.Pro Gear Oceanus
3.Avet HOO-X
4.Shimano Trinidad
5. Shimano Torium
Another benefit of using a conventional reel is the easy use of a wind on
leader which will make your connections knotless. | S******s
发帖数: 5376 | 4 Jigging Rod Selection
Like I said before I am discussing the Japanese Jerk/Crank style which is
also referred to as vertical jigging, speed jigging and butterfly jigging.
The rods used here are much different than the longer yo-yo style that is
common across the Northeast
Generally because of the rhythm, action & technique involved in this
technique you will need a rod that has the following attributes
FEATURES & BENEFITS …. WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Lightweight – weight is very important, you will need a light rod so you
can jig all day without fatigue. Most major manufactures are now shedding
weight wherever they can. Sometimes the most beautiful rods are the heaviest
because of all the bling.
Balanced – Having a rod that is bottom heavy or top heavy is never fun to
jig with therefore a balanced rod is ideal so u can properly work the jig
and for comfort. Plus with a totally balanced rod you will have more control
and leverage over your fish
Power – You want a rod that will have backbone but at the same time bend
with the fish. Too much backbone and your back with kill you and the rod
will be heavier, not enough and it will take hours to land your fish
Action – Parabolic versus standard. Parabolic rods are made to deflect
stress off you and into the fish. These rods will bend almost back to the
last guide/handle region but are absolute workhorses. Most of top rods are
parabolic in nature such as Jigging Master, Hots and Smith. Standard rods
generall will bend back 1/3-1/2 the blank and will do just fine but the
fight is much different
Sensativity in Tip – The tip section of the rod must be flexibale so you
can work the jig, too stiff a tip and you wont impart proper action
Warranty - Make sure you understand the warranty on your rod, some Japanese
companies do not offer the same warranty as the domestic rods. Shimano
offers a break it and exchange it warranty on their Trevala series. However
what good is a warranty if the rod keeps breaking. You need to be honest
with yourself on your fishing style. I would rather have the best rod with a
little warranty than a bad rod with a great warranty
To me the ideal length is 4’8 - 5’2. Personally I love a 5’2” rod I feel
that if the rod has the proper tip you can really do some damage to the
fish
DON’T BE FOOLED ... by yourself
It is very hard buying a rod if you never bent it, we have a great community
that has tried just about every rod. Lean on your peers for advice. DO NOT
get caught up in dead lift tests. That test does nothing for you but give
you an example of bend … and break your rods. If your going to do it raise
the weights off the floor slowly so you don't break your rod. I have
received many PM's about "what do I do now" because its normal to lift 40
pounds off the floor. So my point is Rods can break in un natural positions
just be careful. Its not always about how much you can lift off the floor
its about fighting a fish on a pitching boat and being comfortable and in
control. | S******s
发帖数: 5376 | 5 Understanding Jigging Rod Ratings
Most rods are rated in three ways by the GRAM (jig weight) and the PE Rating
(line Rating) & Style.
Gram rating: The gram rating on your rod is a max rating therefore a 400g
rod is rated from roughly half that rating to the exact gram. So in essence
if I use 250g-400g jigs would be ideal. I generally always buy 400g rods
because I use anywhere from 200-400 jigs and the tips on my rods are always
parabolic in nature therefore I am safe. The blanks are designed to work
that jig within the gram range
PE rating: There is a direct coralation from the jig size to the PE rating.
Almost always a heavier gram rated rod will have a heavier PE line rating
which translates into a higher drag capacity. You will be able to apply much
more drag on a PE8 rod than a PE3 rod.
Perosnally I will only use PE6-8 rods because I know my jig size is 200-400g
and my drag will always be high because of the fish I pursue
Style: Some Japanese rod companies wil dictate that a rod is for jerk/crank,
long sweep and so on. This isn’t the norm but some manufactures do rate
there rod by style. An example would also be a longer rod is made to jig out
of the belt where a shorter rod is made to under the arm.
**********************I am Listing these by PRICE*****************
TOP SHELF JIGGING RODS in no specific order prices range from $400 and up
Hots Wei World 48XXH & 52XH
Ocean Revolution 10000 & 10000X
Smith AMJ Series, Nirai, KGS
Jigging Master 350-500 series
Fisherman & Riple Fisher
Shimano Blue Rose Series
Carpenter 56MH
Tuna Max Big Game & Parabolique
Second Tier – great rods up to $300
OTI 300, 400 & 600
Van Staal
Shimano Trevala F Series
Shimano Jigwrex
Ocean Revolution in Action
Hots Wei World in action
Smith AMJ in action
Shimano Blue Rose in action
OTI 600 in action | S******s
发帖数: 5376 | 6 Braided Line
One of the areas that people normally get cheap is line which is unfortunate
. You spend all this money on trips, rods, reels, lures and then you put low
end line on. Doesn’t make sense. You can easily identify a better braid by
its softness.
Braid is neccisary to get you jig down quickly and for capacity purposes as
most times you will be drifting over structure and will drop your jig to
marked fish so you will need to get down ASAP. Another reason for using
braid is for capacity, the jigging reels today are smaller, more compact and
very narrow therefore line capacity is a problem, with braided line you can
still pack on tons of line.
Basically in a nut shell you have two types of braids. Normal braids and
colored braids.
REGULAR BRAID - I would strongly suggest the use of Braid, there are as you
know many good choices, personally I have used and been happy with several
non colored braids such as Suffix, Tufline XP and JB solid & Hollowcore. I
am not a fan of using windon leaders with Spinning reels but some swear by
it. I have had issues with power pro so I have shied away from it, plus I do
not like a coated braid. These braids are all cost effective and can used
with confidence.
POPULAR BRAID COMPANIES
Suffix
Tufline XP
JB Solid or Hollowcore
COLORED BRAID/PE LINES – The benefit of using colored braid is to easily
identify the depth of your jig by a color. For instance, if you are marking
fish at 100 feet you can drop 5 colors marked at 25 feet each color and jig
back through the fish very easily. It is more expensive than normal braid
and isn’t neccisary other than it being a convenience. I have used OTI, YGK
Ultra Jigman, Zenaq and Diawa Saltiga Boat Braid.
Of them all to be honest I really enjoy the Diawa Saltiga Boat Braid, its
inexpensive, really thin, soft and strong. The markings are easily
identifiable and it’s easy to tie knots with. | S******s
发帖数: 5376 | 7 Understanding PE lines
They began with diameter, using a long-established numbering system that
fits a small range of diameters into a number – for instance, a No. 4
Japanese line will be close to 0.35mm diameter, regardless of whether it’s
braid, nylon, fluorocarbon or whatever. In gel-spun polyethylene braids,
these Japanese numbers are commonly used from 0.6 (about 0.14mm) to 12 (
about 0.7mm); and they’re usually prefixed with PE (for PolyEthylene), so
now you’ll often see Japanese braids referred to as PE1, or PE4, or PE8 or
whatever.
One of the most noticible differences is the line is completely soft and
limp and non coated therefore it is very easy to tie a knot into
PE RATINGS – EXAMPLE DIAWA BOAT BRAID the test listed is max breaking point
PE3- 40
PE4-55
PE5 - 70
PE6 – 80
PE8 – 100
PE10 – 120
PE12 - 150
POPULAR PE LINES/COLORED BRAID COMPANIES
Varivas Avani Jigging Line
YGK Ultra Jigman
OTI Depthfinder
Zenaq
Sunline
Diawa Saltiga Boat Braid | S******s
发帖数: 5376 | 8 Leaders
Shock Leader: This normally leads to heated debates but I will start with
regular shock leader which is a very soft subtle leader which has very
elastic properties and is extremely easy to tie knots with up to 240 pound
test.
I will start with length, I normally put about 4-6 wraps around my spool and
then out of my rod tip by 2’ so maybe 10-12’ of leader. Just enough that
if I get bit off several times I still wont have to re tie
Fluro Carbon Leaders On occasion I will use fluro carbon but most times I do
not. If they are line shy I will use fluro and If you are using Fluro
Carbon I highly suggest Blackwater it is very soft and very easy to tie a
knot in
Popular Shock Leaders
Varivas Shock Leader
Fisherman Stealth Leader
Popular Fluro Carbon
Blackwater
Yozuri
Seagar
Varivas | S******s
发帖数: 5376 | 9 From main line braid to Leader
There is no perfect answer here but many choices as I tell everyone the best
knot to tie is a knot you are comfortable tying. Period end of story. Some
love the uni-uni, some love the Albright, some like the midknot, personally
I use a PR knot because of it low profile and strength
YouTube - PR Knot Bobbin
But there are many knots that will work. Another connection would be wind on
leader which is gaining in popularity. The link below is to Master Basil's
great web site which will go through the process. This loop to loop
connection is very easy to make and has no knot at all
BHP Tackle - Wind-On Leaders - Topshots - Fluorocarbon Wind-On Leaders -
Hollow Spectra
Connection from Leader to Jig
Any knot will work like a uni, trilene etc. You have two major ways of
connecting your leader to your jigs after your knot. As you know it can
become very time consuming to re tie while the bite is hot so most
incorporate a very simple connection.
The benefit to these connections is you never need to re tie you just take
the jig off the split ring to change out with the split ring pliers. Simple
and easy and quick to do.
1. Solid ring to split ring to jig with assist hook on solid ring
2. Swivel to split ring to jig with assist hook on swivel
Personally this is the way I connect everything. As you are jigging your
line as a tendency to twist because of the motion and as you know line twist
can leader to damaged or weakend line so I always use a swivel. Its the
safest way to prolong the life of your line and your jig.
TOOLS NEEDED
Solid rings that are rounded on corners from 200# and up
Split Rings from 300# and up
Split Ring pliers | S******s
发帖数: 5376 | 10 Making your own Assist Hooks
I strongly suggest using one large, wide gap hook instead of two unless you
are using a jig that is more than 13” long, then and only then should you
use a top and bottom hook.
Two hooks does nothing but scar up your fish and cause injury to yourself
and foul each other causing missed strikes
It is very easy to make your own assist hooks
As a rule of thumb I keep all my assist hooks 1/3rd way down from top of jig.
There seems to be a lot of threads asking questions about Assist Hooks. If
you want to buy some good pre-made ones the ones I have used and would
suggest are Shout Power Assist 7/0 & Eastern Tackles Assist Hooks
If not making your own assist hooks are extremely easy to do and fun. First
you will need the following supplies
1. Hooks -preferably wide gap short shank hooks
2. Kevlar Line - in 50 (500#) or 70 (700 #) size
3. Sharp Scissor
4. Super Glue
5. A jig for length ratio
Here are some examples of hooks I use when making my own
My favorite hooks the Kudakos but you will need 7/0's
Kevlar in roll form
Rules I live by ...
a. always make teh length of a single assist hook 1/3 to 1/2 jig length
b. Always use 1 hook unless jig is greater than 13" then I use a high and
low set up
c. Always use a hook wider than the jig being used
Instructions
NOTE: With Kevlar the simple overhand knot will NOT slip especially when
glued with super glue. The Kevlar bites into itself to make a secure
connection to hook | | | S******s
发帖数: 5376 | 11 Jigs, Jigs & More Jigs
This is a topic that will not end, there are long jigs, short jigs, fat jigs
, skinny jigs. The shape of the jig will greatly influence the action. You
will see a combination of jigs that are weighted different such as middle
and rear weighted
Jig length is also very debated in my experience tuna like smaller jigs in
blues, pinks and yellows where amberjacks love long slender jigs in bright
colors and groupers in bottom fish like smaller fatter jigs. No data on this
other than my on the water experience
Bottom or tail weighted jigs - will generally sink much faster than others
are perfect for targeting grouper, snappers and bottom fish. They will move
in very short up and down movements and are generally short in length but
some are long such as the fishermans Crazy Long and Zest
Center weighted jigs - will really move when jigged, more of a flutter side
to side such as the Hots Drift Tune. Most times it will take a very long
time to drop to the bottom and you will most likely get hit on the drop.
Gram Weight – Jigs are weighted in Gram weight, generally rule of thumb is
the deeper waters with current need the heaviest jigs such as 250-400g jigs
while the inshore areas can use lighter jigs such as the 100-130g jigs. Sea
Draggin eluded to 100g per every 100’ but this will vary based on current
Jig Color – Pick your poisen not sure if I buy into all the scientific
color data other than when the fish are feeding on metal Im not sure it
really matters. Perosnally I always pull out pin first followed by a series
of colors I have been successful with
Major Jig Producers and some popular selections. WARNING this is addictive
Hots – Keiten, Drift Tune
Seven Seas – Revolver, Hooker 1 & 7
Smith – Nagamassa, Meijiyume, Dunk Shot, Side Thruster, Jacknife
Zest – Super Deep, Deep Slim
Jigging Master - Broken Arrow, Little Jack, Power Jig
FC Labo – SL jigs, Nata jigs
Fisherman – Andmans, Crazy Long
River2Sea – Zero Dropper, Sea Rock, Turkey Slider
Williamson – Abyss, Bethnos and vortex jigs
Shimano, Flatside, Butterfly jigs
Eastern Tackle – Katana, Classic Flat & Ayasugi
OTI – Jager, Jumbo, Jinkster, Jitterbell & Jackal jigs
Eastern Tackle Katana showcase
MY new Favorite Jigs .. FC Labo SL jigs, clean lines, crazy angles,
fluttering action. A winner no doubt
OTI Jinkster
OTI Jaeger
OTI JUMBO
JIG WEIGHTS
100g= 3.5oz
150g=5.29oz
200g=7.05oz
250g=8.81oz
300g=10.58oz
320g=11.28oz
350g=12.34oz
400g=14.10oz
420g=14.81oz
450g=15.87oz
500g=17.63oz | S******s
发帖数: 5376 | 12 Accessories
Gloves – Girly or not I wear gloves, with ethe constant motion of vertical
jigging you can wear off the skin on your hands and that isn’t going to do
you any good if you plan on jigging. There are many choices. Keep in mind
when selecting a pair of gloves that you should get them tight fitting and
find a pair that is light and has a protected finger. They come in every
color. Hint of advice make sure you order a size larger if you are planning
on buying a Overseas brand as they tend to run very small
JIGGING GLOVE COMPANIES
Zenaq
Smith
Fisherman Brand
Jigging Master
Ocean Revolution (in development)
NON JIGGING GLOVE COMPANIES
Aftco Bluewater Gloves
Belts – The jigging motion requires that you use a smaller belt for comfort
reasons therefore you should try to get a small profile belt when jigging.
Not unlike the gloves there are many choices. Most of the Japanese jigging
belts ride higher in waist but you can lower them personally I use a lower
belt for leverage
JIGGING BELT COMPANIES
Seven Seas
Fisherman Brand _ I use the fisherman Flat Harness my favorite
Jigging Master
Hots
Ocean Revolution (in production)
Split ring Pliers
Split ring Pliers will make your life easy and will also be able to serve
duel purposes as in cutting braid, leader and changing jigs. I would
strongly suggest keeping your pliers in a sheath on your fishing belt
connected with some type of teather so you don’t lose them over board
SPLIT RING PLIER COMPANIES
Duo
Duel
Fisherman
Ocean revolution (in production) | S******s
发帖数: 5376 | 13 Technique & Style
There are two basic styles in jerk crank technique
Under Arm/shorter rod – This is what I use and basically after your jig has
hit bottom you make a short jerk of the rod tip upwards and crank down,
Cycle is one to one. One jerk and one crank down BUT it is in a rhythmic OR
violent motion. Generally I will switch up the technique with a pause, or a
change of speed from a medium speed to a faster speed to a long stroke
On this video you will see that I will change up the technique from really
fast, to a pause to fast again to a pause to a long stroke under arm before
I hook up The fish were biting with avery fast stroke that day
YouTube - 130 pound amberjack jigging
On this video I had a slower more rythmic motion which produces on every
drop. Its very important to change your style if the fish arent biting
YouTube - Amberjack Jigging Part 2
Belt/longer rod 6’ – You position the rod in gimble and pull up
dramatically and reel down. This is a much more violent style and you really
need a longer rod to achieve better results
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_VFe...eature=related | S******s
发帖数: 5376 | 14 I didnt start jigging until 2 years ago when I became absoluetly obbsessed
with it. Kilsong got me hooked and since then I have really been very lucky
to fish with several distinguished fishermen and Sami & Randy from APS took
me under their wings and helped me develop my skills by inviting me on
several trips with some of the better jiggers.
I will tell you this vertical jigging is a very great way of targeting fish
instead of waiting for them to come to you. This style will result in
amazing hookups and all types of species. Perosnally I have jigged almost
anything you could catch including all types of Tuna, Bottom dwellers such
as Amberjack, Grouper, Snapper, Kingfish, Wahoo, Mako Sharks, and Striped
Marlin
Hope this will help you get started all in one thread
Tightlines ............ G | s**********k
发帖数: 934 | 15 Bass好好练，到时候给我们上个速成班就行了
for
many
that
【在 S******s 的大作中提到】
: I created this for those of you who are just entering into this extreme
: sport as a reference guide of products and techniques. I know there are a
: lot of experienced jiggers here but I figured I would post it up anyway for
: those that may just be starting.
: When I decided to start jigging years back I got my start from PM’ing many
: board members such as Kilsong, Randy & Sami at Anglers Pro Shop and Paul
: from JPR Rods as he built me my first jigging rod. The wealth of knowledge
: on the boards is amazing. I thought that I would try to give back to the
: board by posting this thread on my jigging techniques and gear in hopes that
: I may help someone who has just started.
| S******s
发帖数: 5376 | |
|
