c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 1 It was raining in the morning, which is rare in Smith Rock. We spent most of
the morning in the restaurant drinking coffee until it shows signs to clear
up. It finally did and it wasn't that late so we decided to give Monkey
Face a shot.
We started from the base around 1pm. We are a party of 4. LD and me are on
the second rope. LD led the first and second pitches. Pitch 1 is easy, but
definitely not class 4 according to the guidebook. I'd say mid class 5 moves
here and there. A somehow big ledge | p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 2 Zan!
I don't even want to think about free hanging rappel now. I flipped over on
a free hanging rappel two days ago with a heavy pack and dropped my backpack
in panic - with a full rack in it - for 100 feet (I didn't realize that) -
and almost killed two climbers down below (I didn't realize that either). I
had fireman's belay, but I didn't know the guy hoding the rope well and deep
in my mind I didn't trust him.
I just cannot belive how stupid I was. I've been doing free hanging rappel
many tim
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: It was raining in the morning, which is rare in Smith Rock. We spent most of
: the morning in the restaurant drinking coffee until it shows signs to clear
: up. It finally did and it wasn't that late so we decided to give Monkey
: Face a shot.
: We started from the base around 1pm. We are a party of 4. LD and me are on
: the second rope. LD led the first and second pitches. Pitch 1 is easy, but
: definitely not class 4 according to the guidebook. I'd say mid class 5 moves
: here and there. A somehow big ledge
| T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 3 Next time when you rappel with heavy pack, make sure you extend your rappel
device, instead of rappelling from your belay loop.
Girth hitch one single runner on your harness belay loop, and rig your rappe
l device on the other end of runner.
a
in
and
had
in
never
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: Zan!
: I don't even want to think about free hanging rappel now. I flipped over on
: a free hanging rappel two days ago with a heavy pack and dropped my backpack
: in panic - with a full rack in it - for 100 feet (I didn't realize that) -
: and almost killed two climbers down below (I didn't realize that either). I
: had fireman's belay, but I didn't know the guy hoding the rope well and deep
: in my mind I didn't trust him.
: I just cannot belive how stupid I was. I've been doing free hanging rappel
: many tim
| c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 4 Good lessons learned and I'm glad you are safe. Don't worry about the gears
and cookies. 3 suggestions if I may.
1. one good lesson to learn from aid climbers: don't rappel with a heavy
pack on your back. Instead, hang it below you between your legs. That's what
they do with the pig (haul bag). If you really have to do so, rig a chest
harness.
2. Another lesson to learn: use autoblock if you need to. It could be jerky
and uncomfortable. But with some practice you can make it quite smooth. The
ke
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: Zan!
: I don't even want to think about free hanging rappel now. I flipped over on
: a free hanging rappel two days ago with a heavy pack and dropped my backpack
: in panic - with a full rack in it - for 100 feet (I didn't realize that) -
: and almost killed two climbers down below (I didn't realize that either). I
: had fireman's belay, but I didn't know the guy hoding the rope well and deep
: in my mind I didn't trust him.
: I just cannot belive how stupid I was. I've been doing free hanging rappel
: many tim
| p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 5 Thanks, guys. I'll do some practise at some point.
gears
what
jerky
The
you
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: Good lessons learned and I'm glad you are safe. Don't worry about the gears
: and cookies. 3 suggestions if I may.
: 1. one good lesson to learn from aid climbers: don't rappel with a heavy
: pack on your back. Instead, hang it below you between your legs. That's what
: they do with the pig (haul bag). If you really have to do so, rig a chest
: harness.
: 2. Another lesson to learn: use autoblock if you need to. It could be jerky
: and uncomfortable. But with some practice you can make it quite smooth. The
: ke
|
|
