e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 1 差50磅不是啥大事.当然前提是belayer习惯给比自己重50 lb的人belay.
好像体重差1/2才是个大事.
lead belay关键是slack给多少. grigri并不能减少slack.
不过能避免手上的rope burn,
可以只用一只手belya,能闲出一只手做别的.
对方hangdog时可以轻松很多.
grigri 2值这个钱,我的gym里grigri 2曾经脱销过.
last
i
me
from
of |
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e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 2 就是拿grigri的方式不对.或者给slack的时候得误操作.
当然正常belay的时候都不碰grigri
我感觉等到mulit pitch的时候再买grigri也不迟. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 3 remember: stopping the fall is HALF of the function of the belay. reducing
the impact is th other half. an ATC usually slips at 2.5kN and a grigri
easily grips 10kN. you have a much bigger chance to be tea bagged belaying
a big guy using a grigri than a regular belay device. if the weight
difference is a big concern, just don't climb with them.
more |
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e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 4 嗯。正是减少slack主要是靠交流和判断，还有反应。和belay device没关系。
如果不走神，grigri和普通的belay device比，并不能减少slack。
据说grigri使用不当，很容易导致fatal failure。 |
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e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 5 就是使用不当,或者碰巧误操作.
上lead 课的时候,老头给我们演示了一下.
轻轻一碰grigri就完全off belay了.
然后还介绍了一种拿grigri的方式可以避免这种情况,但是我也没有,也没记住. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 6 【 以下文字转载自 Outdoors 讨论区 】
发信人: TrueCabbage (从今天开始过猪的生活), 信区: Outdoors
标 题: [合集] Re: grigri这么贵啊
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Fri Nov 21 02:05:40 2008), 站内
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outbacker (外后者) 于 (Thu Nov 20 14:36:53 2008) 提到:
搜了下backcountry.com，都是90刀一个。
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yya (yya) 于 (Thu Nov 20 14:40:44 2008) 提到:
我买了一个，但是不想用。都没拆过
不喜欢grigri
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cookiejar (饼干桶) 于 (Thu Nov 20 14:44:55 2008) 提到:
why do you need it?
☆─────── |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 7 ☆─────────────────────────────────────☆
outbacker (外后者) 于 (Thu Nov 20 14:36:53 2008) 提到:
搜了下backcountry.com，都是90刀一个。
☆─────────────────────────────────────☆
yya (yya) 于 (Thu Nov 20 14:40:44 2008) 提到:
我买了一个，但是不想用。都没拆过
不喜欢grigri
☆─────────────────────────────────────☆
cookiejar (饼干桶) 于 (Thu Nov 20 14:44:55 2008) 提到:
why do you need it?
☆─────────────────────────────────────☆
cookiejar (饼干桶) 于 (Thu Nov 20 14:45:33 2008) 提到:
如果你经常需要把你的partner挂在墙上半小时就需要
☆───────────────────────── |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 8 has nothing to do with your weight. actually I prefer not using a grigri
when I am belaying a leader
Especially |
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a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 9 why you said nothing to do with my body weight? i am 110 1bs, one of my
friends is like 170 1bs something. we are more than 50 1bs difference. last
weekend i was belaying him top roping a 5.10c. and he had a dynamic fall
when working at the crux. i got yanked up and dislocation away from where i
stood, luckily i asked another friend to stand right next to me, to grab me
if ever that could happen.
at the least in that case, if i got pull up into the air or moved away from
the original standing ba... 阅读全帖 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 10 so why do you think a grigri can compensate the 50lbs difference?
what you need is to anchor yourself indeed
last
i
me
from
of |
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a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 11 my assumption is that - in a condition where anchoring the belayer is not
possible, at the least then grigri can help to stop unnecessary of rope-out-
of-control situation, given when suddenly dislocated, the belayer might
remove a hand away from the rope. |
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a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 12 rope burn and also getting caught by the belay device, both can be avoided
with grigri
as for lead belay, i think it is also very important to actively taking in
slack once the lead climber clips in a quickdraw. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 13 Then what if the leader falls at the 2nd bolt? He will simply pull you up an
d have a ground fall.
Anchoring yourself is more important. The autolocking of the grigri is a goo
d backup, but can not replace a floor anchor.
If your leader is heavier than you for more then 50lbs, and you can not anch
or yourself, you should find another belayer, or just don't climb this damn
route.
out- |
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e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 14 high clip 几次clip不上去怎么办?
如果belayer精力集中.grigri就是多剩出一只手而已. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 15 the grigri is going to make the situation much worse because it's much more
static than a regular belay device
last
i
me
from
of |
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b***y
发帖数: 824 | 16 Haven't find much benefit using Grigri except aid belay and hanging dog finishing a sport route. All other cases, I prefer regular ATC, especially when I'm leading a route. |
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a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 17 but why grigri is so expensive??? still don't get it.
finishing a sport route. All other cases, I prefer regular ATC, especially
when I'm leading a route. |
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y*a
发帖数: 40 | 18 不认为grigri catch fall更安全。更省力是真的，但容易走神，容易出现无法挽回的
错误操作。绳子沾水，结冰不能用grigri。用grigri手仍然要握住制动端。Trad lead
不能用grigri/cinch
尤其不建议新手用grigri，学不会belay的。
cinch可以用9.4-11mm的绳子，涵盖了sports climbing几乎所有的single rope范围，
更轻，feed rope比grigri更smooth。
总的来说，新手还是老老实实用ATC，如果要red point sports route，需要在上面挂
很久，可以考虑grigri/cinch。其它还是ATC |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 19 没用过。只用过grigri. pink似乎比较有研究，她以前好像发过一个帖子，你考考古吧
。BTW,你都奢侈到买grigri了？ |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 20 总之我是不会用grigri的了。cinch和新出的mammut smart在重量，使用的绳子直径，
给绳的流畅性上都胜过grigri了。
http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/1060348_v_0044_/Smart.html
The Smart safety device has been specially designed to meet the needs of the
constantly growing group of indoor and sports climbers. It dynamically
brakes the climber in an accidental fall, and locks even at low levels of
force exerted by the user. In situations where the user has a sudden shock,
the function corresponds to the reflex movements of the human body. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 21 和grigri肯定配合不好，太细，说那个话的人应该看看grigri的spec. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 22 1. Cinch is a bit lighter. It's a pro, true.
2. Cinch takes a wider range of rope diameter. It's insignificant for me. I
do not use thin rope when I use a grigri/cinch.
3. grigri has a longer lever. it's much more smooth when you rap on single
strand, especially with the pig (haul bag)
4. Cinch is harder to use, it's very easy to screw up. Lots of people
complain about it.
I have read tons of reviews on supertopo, and the above 4 issues are
basically the concensus. Majority wall climbers use Gri |
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h***y
发帖数: 834 | 23 ☆─────────────────────────────────────☆
skyscorpio (天之蝎子) 于 (Thu Mar 17 21:07:35 2011, 美东) 提到:
吉时已到！欢迎今年match 上的同学向大家展示新科住院医的风采！祝你们在新的工作岗位上顺利，进步，开心！
21楼 rainingcats 喵喵和小喵喵们
300楼 arisrao (麦地火鸟）大美女新奔美照
78楼 blulue (blulue) 和小bb
83楼 三只小喵喵
134楼 lingzMainz
140楼 fatgirl12
187楼 grigri 男一号啊！！ 269楼更精彩~ 速去，速去
237楼 Amymama家的小美眉们，呼唤美妈ing~
256楼 原来firestar麦地油菜花是大美女 LOL
272楼 mmmkkk 幸福的一家
更多精彩还在后头。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。
☆─────────────────────────────────────☆
daisyy (Daisy) 于 (Thu Mar 17 21:08:54 2011, 美东... 阅读全帖 |
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h***y
发帖数: 834 | 24 ☆─────────────────────────────────────☆
toutuanzi (rr) 于 (Fri Sep 3 14:54:17 2010, 美东) 提到:
Got two rejections already: Guthrie, PA (internal medicine) and Capital
Health (FP)
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yeastmito (小猪) 于 (Fri Sep 3 15:14:14 2010, 美东) 提到:
我也受到一个据信了
Guthrie, PA (internal medicine
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rr6262789 (盘片) 于 (Fri Sep 3 15:15:38 2010, 美东) 提到:
Rejection: Guthrie (IM), PA
Hey toutuanzi, can you highlight your post title so that... 阅读全帖 |
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k**u
发帖数: 10502 | 25 你说的是8字环，也可以用ATC，都需要简单的培训。
半自动的有Grigri
还有全自动的automatic belay device
总之户主只要一根比楼高长一点的长绳子，紧急情况下把绳子的一端扔下楼，然后沿绳
下降就可以了。
另外需要安全带和手套。
这个解决办法算是简单的，只要火不在自己下方。
总投资千把元，每户就可以搞一套。 |
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J*********B
发帖数: 822 | 26 biohope' majia?
排名 疑似马甲 IP相似分 发贴版面相似分 总分
1 sweetgrey 0.285894596018 0.144707376641 0.368636709989
2 happymaker 0.214277110486 0.262293203081 0.326683969799
3 WtW 0.283495865172 0.0702372322535 0.323319795022
4 esteem 0.31688613816 0.0 0.31688613816
5 grigri 0.316654340467 0.0 0.316654340467
6 hillfan 0.283591727177 0.039226644213 0.305840430744
7 byrrw 0.251709401626 0.0377003755126 0.270688479549
8 ... 阅读全帖 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 28 grigri不能rappel. cragging的时候用挺好 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 29 在glacier上用grigri只能说脑子进水了，就像在雪地上开后轮驱动的roadster一样 |
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z*********n
发帖数: 94654 | 31 搭车问你个问题哈，用过grigri否？
spec写着10-11mm rope only
我的9.7mm的能用吗？ |
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z*********n
发帖数: 94654 | 32 哈哈，你说的不能，还找你干吗，要是你说能我用了结果不能摔死了
才要找你呢
grigri就那一个型号吗？貌似google了半天就那个东西
还是有别的公司的类似产品叫别的名字？ |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 33 就一个型号。grigri主要给sport climbing用的，自然不考虑那么细的绳子 |
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z*********n
发帖数: 94654 | 34 在想，最近周末基本上都是sport climb
在考虑买个grigri catch fall比较安全 |
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s****y
发帖数: 2159 | 35 要是用惯了grigri, 再回去用ATC, 是不是会有不好的习惯？，习惯了省力了？
lead |
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y*a
发帖数: 40 | 36 用grigri你不会注意力那么集中，习惯了的话回去用ATC反而容易出问题 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 37 If your belay does not rely on grigri's auto lock feature, that's fine.
Otherwise, you may forget and lose your break hand when you go back to ATC.
For beginner, starting with ATC is a better option. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 38 petzl grigri, item#: 729118
OR鬼子帽,721671
freedom hill 7, 703595 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 39 rock & ice的review也说到了stiffness，不过用了几个pitch就好了，而且打double
bowline都没有问题，所以问题不大。看了一下别的抱怨sheeth quality的基本都是
sport climber，经常hang dog的，我买了肯定是exclusively用在alpine rock上的，
没打算take任何fall，还有抱怨说跟grigri配合不好，也不是我的concern |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 40 I use grigri for sport climbing now. It doesn't have any sharp edges. I
belay my second with a reverso 3 exclusively, it doesn't have sharp edges
when it's in autolock mode. When I belay a leader on an alpine climb, they
shouldn't take a fall :), so I am good.
althoug |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 41 agree especially with 3
if you use grigri only for aid climb, probably it is a good choice.
I
cinch
gri
of |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 42 I use grigri mostly for aid climb. I bring it on sport cragging too, so that
people can hangdog. |
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w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 43 i hate using grigri to lower ppl much heavier than me
it's quite a workout:)
that |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 44 tried grigri to lead belay one night, feels very awkward, maybe need more
practice on that. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 45 If you end up doing multi pitch trad route, investing $30 on another device
is no big deal considerng how much you spend on the rack. ATC is the most
versatile device and I truely believe it should be on the rack of every
climber: alpine, cragger, or sport.
When I climb trad multi pitch, I exclusively belay with a petzl reverso 3,
and use autolock 90% of the time.
When I climb alpine rock, I always use an ATC.
When I climb at a sport crag, I usually bring an ATC and a Grigri.
guide |
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a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 47 我看了这个电影，根据我的印象，
是有人lead了，但是下面的人是自己用grigri上去的。
所以看起来比较怪。因为是self-belay。 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 48 If only one grigri is used, nothing else, that should be self-belay. |
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w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 49 if you are talking about the asgard project, then:
1. they aided
2. they used ascenders (NOT grigri) to climb up the rope which was set up by
someone in the team (most of the time Leo; it seems he led most of the
pitches) |
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R**i
发帖数: 7994 | 50 NJRG问过没有出过事故
Gravity我就没问了，grigri更难出事了吧 |
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