k**e
发帖数: 2728 | 1 这个周末想去买harness和belay device。
local店说harness有三种。第一种basic,第二种好点，只多10块钱，具体怎么好忘了；
第三种一百多块钱。他说他推荐第二种。你们说呢？
belay device就检个blackdiamond basic的就行了把？ |
q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 2 the best beginner harness for value is Black Diamond primrose/momentum, it
can last more than a few years for you. For belay device, basic BD ATC is
good enough, but you might want to get ATC guide which is $10 more with a
couple extra features.
【在 k**e 的大作中提到】
: 这个周末想去买harness和belay device。
: local店说harness有三种。第一种basic,第二种好点，只多10块钱，具体怎么好忘了；
: 第三种一百多块钱。他说他推荐第二种。你们说呢？
: belay device就检个blackdiamond basic的就行了把？
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 3 I recommend against ATC guide, actually. I think the best belay device you
can get if you only want to have one is ATC. My 2 cents.
【在 q*n 的大作中提到】
: the best beginner harness for value is Black Diamond primrose/momentum, it
: can last more than a few years for you. For belay device, basic BD ATC is
: good enough, but you might want to get ATC guide which is $10 more with a
: couple extra features.
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 4 ATC guide还是挺好的, 看着就安全放心. 不过我一直没有弄明白那个小洞是干啥用得
...通过ipod的耳机线么?...
另外, 有个家伙说"你2年内用不上这个大洞的, 不信你要是用上了,我请你吃饭", 呵呵
..可惜这顿饭从来就没有兑现过.
【在 q*n 的大作中提到】
: the best beginner harness for value is Black Diamond primrose/momentum, it
: can last more than a few years for you. For belay device, basic BD ATC is
: good enough, but you might want to get ATC guide which is $10 more with a
: couple extra features.
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 5 刚刚到BD网站上看到小洞的用法了....汗....
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: ATC guide还是挺好的, 看着就安全放心. 不过我一直没有弄明白那个小洞是干啥用得
: ...通过ipod的耳机线么?...
: 另外, 有个家伙说"你2年内用不上这个大洞的, 不信你要是用上了,我请你吃饭", 呵呵
: ..可惜这顿饭从来就没有兑现过.
|
k**e
发帖数: 2728 | 6 谢谢回答~~~
【在 q*n 的大作中提到】
: the best beginner harness for value is Black Diamond primrose/momentum, it
: can last more than a few years for you. For belay device, basic BD ATC is
: good enough, but you might want to get ATC guide which is $10 more with a
: couple extra features.
|
q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 7 i think the high friction mode can be useful even for toproping, especially
if the belayer is much lighter than the climber. i still love the autoblock
mode for multipitch.
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I recommend against ATC guide, actually. I think the best belay device you
: can get if you only want to have one is ATC. My 2 cents.
|
k**e
发帖数: 2728 | 8 谢谢大家的讨论。
我再amazon上看到这个
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-Momentum-Harness-Package/dp/B0012EA6DO/ref=lh_ni_t_
基本上是这个讨论里建议的东西。问题是他们没说大概什么样的人使用什么size。我身
高5'2,体重105磅吧。是不是small的号数就成了。不会small的给小孩子用的吧。网页
上也没说清楚。
especially
autoblock
【在 q*n 的大作中提到】
: i think the high friction mode can be useful even for toproping, especially
: if the belayer is much lighter than the climber. i still love the autoblock
: mode for multipitch.
|
s****t
发帖数: 746 | 9 BD的momentum是男款，对应的女款是primrose。
你的身材，可能男款小号也会大。
另外harness最好到店里面先试过再买，不光是size的问题，
还有是否fit的问题。
同样的牌子，同样的size，但是不同型号款式的harness，
我有的就穿的很好，有的完全受不了。
我自己用的是男款momentum，primrose我穿着不fit，
但是大多数女生都更倾向于女款的primrose。
最好去店里试一试，harness要穿上，挂在绳子上才感觉出来是否不舒服。
【在 k**e 的大作中提到】
: 谢谢大家的讨论。
: 我再amazon上看到这个
: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-Momentum-Harness-Package/dp/B0012EA6DO/ref=lh_ni_t_
: 基本上是这个讨论里建议的东西。问题是他们没说大概什么样的人使用什么size。我身
: 高5'2,体重105磅吧。是不是small的号数就成了。不会small的给小孩子用的吧。网页
: 上也没说清楚。
:
: especially
: autoblock
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 10 Why? Although majority of people don't end up doing multi-pitch trad
climbing, but if they do, I really think the auto block mode from ATC guide
is a must know.
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I recommend against ATC guide, actually. I think the best belay device you
: can get if you only want to have one is ATC. My 2 cents.
|
|
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 11 The link is not any cheaper than rei/ems. Go to local store and try one on.
Personally I think a women model small size should fit you.
And some girls like to choose pretty looking harnesses, functionality and
prices are lower priority...hehe...
【在 k**e 的大作中提到】
: 谢谢大家的讨论。
: 我再amazon上看到这个
: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-Momentum-Harness-Package/dp/B0012EA6DO/ref=lh_ni_t_
: 基本上是这个讨论里建议的东西。问题是他们没说大概什么样的人使用什么size。我身
: 高5'2,体重105磅吧。是不是small的号数就成了。不会small的给小孩子用的吧。网页
: 上也没说清楚。
:
: especially
: autoblock
|
k**e
发帖数: 2728 | 12 谢谢大家的热心回答！ :)
谢谢观星者（观鞋者）的回答。西西。
我今天就上店里去看看。
.
【在 S********g 的大作中提到】
: The link is not any cheaper than rei/ems. Go to local store and try one on.
: Personally I think a women model small size should fit you.
: And some girls like to choose pretty looking harnesses, functionality and
: prices are lower priority...hehe...
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 13 看pink写的FAQ
【在 k**e 的大作中提到】
: 这个周末想去买harness和belay device。
: local店说harness有三种。第一种basic,第二种好点，只多10块钱，具体怎么好忘了；
: 第三种一百多块钱。他说他推荐第二种。你们说呢？
: belay device就检个blackdiamond basic的就行了把？
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 14 agree
Belay device with auto-locking mode is a big plus for multi-pitch climb.
Two popular belay devices with this feature are BD ATC guide and petzl rever
sal 3. Reversal 3 is lighter than ATC guide, but guide handles fat rope much
smoother than reversal 3.
guide
【在 S********g 的大作中提到】
: Why? Although majority of people don't end up doing multi-pitch trad
: climbing, but if they do, I really think the auto block mode from ATC guide
: is a must know.
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 15 In that case, ACT XP will work
especially
autoblock
you
【在 q*n 的大作中提到】
: i think the high friction mode can be useful even for toproping, especially
: if the belayer is much lighter than the climber. i still love the autoblock
: mode for multipitch.
|
k**e
发帖数: 2728 | 16 回来了。买了petzl的。就比BD的多了10块钱。店小二说现在的新款都会朝着Petzl那个
设计走了，BD primose的太基本，比较老式的design，当然用起来绝对没问题。我问了
各愚蠢的问题，我说，那个，petzle的腰带拉紧的那个扣子，看起象塑料，这个塑料扣
子和BD的那个金属比，只怕不够耐用。说完一抬头，店小二脑门三条黑线阿！！！他说
，这都是金属！能承重5000磅。。。这下轮到我窘了。西西。。。
【在 k**e 的大作中提到】
: 谢谢大家的热心回答！ :)
: 谢谢观星者（观鞋者）的回答。西西。
: 我今天就上店里去看看。
:
: .
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 17 If you end up doing multi pitch trad route, investing $30 on another device
is no big deal considerng how much you spend on the rack. ATC is the most
versatile device and I truely believe it should be on the rack of every
climber: alpine, cragger, or sport.
When I climb trad multi pitch, I exclusively belay with a petzl reverso 3,
and use autolock 90% of the time.
When I climb alpine rock, I always use an ATC.
When I climb at a sport crag, I usually bring an ATC and a Grigri.
guide
【在 S********g 的大作中提到】
: Why? Although majority of people don't end up doing multi-pitch trad
: climbing, but if they do, I really think the auto block mode from ATC guide
: is a must know.
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 18 Cong~~~ all major brands harnesses should be safe enough;-)
【在 k**e 的大作中提到】
: 回来了。买了petzl的。就比BD的多了10块钱。店小二说现在的新款都会朝着Petzl那个
: 设计走了，BD primose的太基本，比较老式的design，当然用起来绝对没问题。我问了
: 各愚蠢的问题，我说，那个，petzle的腰带拉紧的那个扣子，看起象塑料，这个塑料扣
: 子和BD的那个金属比，只怕不够耐用。说完一抬头，店小二脑门三条黑线阿！！！他说
: ，这都是金属！能承重5000磅。。。这下轮到我窘了。西西。。。
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 19 Yeah, I guess I agree that for a person just starting out, no need to get
fancy and just get a ATC. 80% of the chance is that you will quit after a
couple of months, and 99% of the chance that you will never multi-pitch trad
lead.
80% is an understatement looking at all those random friends that I brought
to the gym over the last couple of years...^_^
device
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: If you end up doing multi pitch trad route, investing $30 on another device
: is no big deal considerng how much you spend on the rack. ATC is the most
: versatile device and I truely believe it should be on the rack of every
: climber: alpine, cragger, or sport.
: When I climb trad multi pitch, I exclusively belay with a petzl reverso 3,
: and use autolock 90% of the time.
: When I climb alpine rock, I always use an ATC.
: When I climb at a sport crag, I usually bring an ATC and a Grigri.
:
: guide
|
s****y
发帖数: 267 | 20 My 2 cents as a newbie, gym climbing is not a sport that demands talent.
Everyone can climb high grade eventually with efforts. But if you want to
progress quickly, you need to train yourself smartly.
trad
brought
【在 S********g 的大作中提到】
: Yeah, I guess I agree that for a person just starting out, no need to get
: fancy and just get a ATC. 80% of the chance is that you will quit after a
: couple of months, and 99% of the chance that you will never multi-pitch trad
: lead.
: 80% is an understatement looking at all those random friends that I brought
: to the gym over the last couple of years...^_^
:
: device
|
