n*****a 发帖数: 1327 | 1 7 of us visited Pinnacle National Monument on last Sunday.
Lead 5.9 "wet kiss"
Worked on TR 5.11a "the verdict" with 10+ take.
It's volcanic rocks there; it feels like i could peel off any holds. Some
rock is 1/4 embedded into the wall with 3/4 sticking out as a perfect hold(
if it doesn't break). |
n*****a 发帖数: 1327 | 2 The verdict is a good one.
it looks easy but you need to think over the sequence to avoid getting pumpy
soon at multiple cruxes.
【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】 : 7 of us visited Pinnacle National Monument on last Sunday. : Lead 5.9 "wet kiss" : Worked on TR 5.11a "the verdict" with 10+ take. : It's volcanic rocks there; it feels like i could peel off any holds. Some : rock is 1/4 embedded into the wall with 3/4 sticking out as a perfect hold( : if it doesn't break).
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m******e 发帖数: 4232 | 3 进入TR 5.11阶段了?
【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】 : 7 of us visited Pinnacle National Monument on last Sunday. : Lead 5.9 "wet kiss" : Worked on TR 5.11a "the verdict" with 10+ take. : It's volcanic rocks there; it feels like i could peel off any holds. Some : rock is 1/4 embedded into the wall with 3/4 sticking out as a perfect hold( : if it doesn't break).
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p**********t 发帖数: 2636 | 4 cool. leading outdoors is the fun part of climbing!
No matter how many takes you have for the first time, if you eventually
figure out the moves, it's a good sign that you can do the moves and later
you will be able to lead it clean.
【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】 : 7 of us visited Pinnacle National Monument on last Sunday. : Lead 5.9 "wet kiss" : Worked on TR 5.11a "the verdict" with 10+ take. : It's volcanic rocks there; it feels like i could peel off any holds. Some : rock is 1/4 embedded into the wall with 3/4 sticking out as a perfect hold( : if it doesn't break).
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n*****a 发帖数: 1327 | 5 indoor有些a,b可以。
outdoor还差很多。
【在 m******e 的大作中提到】 : 进入TR 5.11阶段了?
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s***y 发帖数: 7034 | 6 赞奔
【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】 : 7 of us visited Pinnacle National Monument on last Sunday. : Lead 5.9 "wet kiss" : Worked on TR 5.11a "the verdict" with 10+ take. : It's volcanic rocks there; it feels like i could peel off any holds. Some : rock is 1/4 embedded into the wall with 3/4 sticking out as a perfect hold( : if it doesn't break).
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T********d 发帖数: 621 | 7 Cool!
【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】 : 7 of us visited Pinnacle National Monument on last Sunday. : Lead 5.9 "wet kiss" : Worked on TR 5.11a "the verdict" with 10+ take. : It's volcanic rocks there; it feels like i could peel off any holds. Some : rock is 1/4 embedded into the wall with 3/4 sticking out as a perfect hold( : if it doesn't break).
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m******e 发帖数: 4232 | 8 同感,outdoor的10级的就感觉很难了。
【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】 : indoor有些a,b可以。 : outdoor还差很多。
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n*****a 发帖数: 1327 | 9 i think the difficut level of the moves is similar for the same rating but
there is no marked holds guiding you through and you need to take time to
figure out the right hold and squence. many cruxes you cannot even see from
below and plan in advance. it makes a difference to figure out the right
move in 2 seconds or 10 seconds if the rest point is not good.
a few outdoor trips teach me how to improve indoor climbing as well. instead
of rushing to the crux and give a bid, take time to relax both
【在 m******e 的大作中提到】 : 同感,outdoor的10级的就感觉很难了。
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m******e 发帖数: 4232 | 10 是,有时第一次上的时候觉得怎么这么难,难度划分不对罢?等下来看见有别的
手点和脚点再上去就轻松多了,所以在外面有经验的人能找到更好路线,会轻
松很多。
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【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】 : i think the difficut level of the moves is similar for the same rating but : there is no marked holds guiding you through and you need to take time to : figure out the right hold and squence. many cruxes you cannot even see from : below and plan in advance. it makes a difference to figure out the right : move in 2 seconds or 10 seconds if the rest point is not good. : a few outdoor trips teach me how to improve indoor climbing as well. instead : of rushing to the crux and give a bid, take time to relax both
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q*n 发帖数: 1203 | 11
from
instead
good
the
bouldering就是帮助这个的吧,必须先琢磨好路线一气呵成, 最好还能记住sequence.
【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】 : i think the difficut level of the moves is similar for the same rating but : there is no marked holds guiding you through and you need to take time to : figure out the right hold and squence. many cruxes you cannot even see from : below and plan in advance. it makes a difference to figure out the right : move in 2 seconds or 10 seconds if the rest point is not good. : a few outdoor trips teach me how to improve indoor climbing as well. instead : of rushing to the crux and give a bid, take time to relax both
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q*n 发帖数: 1203 | 12 nice, 你现在胆子比一个月大了很多嘛。 :)
【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】 : 7 of us visited Pinnacle National Monument on last Sunday. : Lead 5.9 "wet kiss" : Worked on TR 5.11a "the verdict" with 10+ take. : It's volcanic rocks there; it feels like i could peel off any holds. Some : rock is 1/4 embedded into the wall with 3/4 sticking out as a perfect hold( : if it doesn't break).
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