由买买提看人间百态

boards

本页内容为未名空间相应帖子的节选和存档,一周内的贴子最多显示50字,超过一周显示500字 访问原贴
Outdoors版 - 20090621_pinnacle national monument
相关主题
[TR] A week in the high SierraSW US road trip-2- Wave
red river gorge归来Malibu照片
一定要小心落石今日爬墙
有好的关于climbing的书或者video推荐吗?gym里爬墙的无聊之处
问一下关于falling的问题。FYI: 别买Omega Pacific的link cam
2本攀登的书link cam事件后续
昨天爬了Half Dome有人想感恩节去Red Rocks攀岩么
Climbing log: 11/23, Frenchman CouleeLion's Head归来
相关话题的讨论汇总
话题: pinnacle话题: monument话题: 20090621话题: national话题: lead
进入Outdoors版参与讨论
1 (共1页)
n*****a
发帖数: 1327
1
7 of us visited Pinnacle National Monument on last Sunday.
Lead 5.9 "wet kiss"
Worked on TR 5.11a "the verdict" with 10+ take.
It's volcanic rocks there; it feels like i could peel off any holds. Some
rock is 1/4 embedded into the wall with 3/4 sticking out as a perfect hold(
if it doesn't break).
n*****a
发帖数: 1327
2
The verdict is a good one.
it looks easy but you need to think over the sequence to avoid getting pumpy
soon at multiple cruxes.

【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】
: 7 of us visited Pinnacle National Monument on last Sunday.
: Lead 5.9 "wet kiss"
: Worked on TR 5.11a "the verdict" with 10+ take.
: It's volcanic rocks there; it feels like i could peel off any holds. Some
: rock is 1/4 embedded into the wall with 3/4 sticking out as a perfect hold(
: if it doesn't break).

m******e
发帖数: 4232
3
进入TR 5.11阶段了?

【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】
: 7 of us visited Pinnacle National Monument on last Sunday.
: Lead 5.9 "wet kiss"
: Worked on TR 5.11a "the verdict" with 10+ take.
: It's volcanic rocks there; it feels like i could peel off any holds. Some
: rock is 1/4 embedded into the wall with 3/4 sticking out as a perfect hold(
: if it doesn't break).

p**********t
发帖数: 2636
4
cool. leading outdoors is the fun part of climbing!
No matter how many takes you have for the first time, if you eventually
figure out the moves, it's a good sign that you can do the moves and later
you will be able to lead it clean.

【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】
: 7 of us visited Pinnacle National Monument on last Sunday.
: Lead 5.9 "wet kiss"
: Worked on TR 5.11a "the verdict" with 10+ take.
: It's volcanic rocks there; it feels like i could peel off any holds. Some
: rock is 1/4 embedded into the wall with 3/4 sticking out as a perfect hold(
: if it doesn't break).

n*****a
发帖数: 1327
5
indoor有些a,b可以。
outdoor还差很多。

【在 m******e 的大作中提到】
: 进入TR 5.11阶段了?
s***y
发帖数: 7034
6
赞奔

【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】
: 7 of us visited Pinnacle National Monument on last Sunday.
: Lead 5.9 "wet kiss"
: Worked on TR 5.11a "the verdict" with 10+ take.
: It's volcanic rocks there; it feels like i could peel off any holds. Some
: rock is 1/4 embedded into the wall with 3/4 sticking out as a perfect hold(
: if it doesn't break).

T********d
发帖数: 621
7
Cool!

【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】
: 7 of us visited Pinnacle National Monument on last Sunday.
: Lead 5.9 "wet kiss"
: Worked on TR 5.11a "the verdict" with 10+ take.
: It's volcanic rocks there; it feels like i could peel off any holds. Some
: rock is 1/4 embedded into the wall with 3/4 sticking out as a perfect hold(
: if it doesn't break).

m******e
发帖数: 4232
8
同感,outdoor的10级的就感觉很难了。

【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】
: indoor有些a,b可以。
: outdoor还差很多。

n*****a
发帖数: 1327
9
i think the difficut level of the moves is similar for the same rating but
there is no marked holds guiding you through and you need to take time to
figure out the right hold and squence. many cruxes you cannot even see from
below and plan in advance. it makes a difference to figure out the right
move in 2 seconds or 10 seconds if the rest point is not good.
a few outdoor trips teach me how to improve indoor climbing as well. instead
of rushing to the crux and give a bid, take time to relax both

【在 m******e 的大作中提到】
: 同感,outdoor的10级的就感觉很难了。
m******e
发帖数: 4232
10
是,有时第一次上的时候觉得怎么这么难,难度划分不对罢?等下来看见有别的
手点和脚点再上去就轻松多了,所以在外面有经验的人能找到更好路线,会轻
松很多。

from
instead
good
the

【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】
: i think the difficut level of the moves is similar for the same rating but
: there is no marked holds guiding you through and you need to take time to
: figure out the right hold and squence. many cruxes you cannot even see from
: below and plan in advance. it makes a difference to figure out the right
: move in 2 seconds or 10 seconds if the rest point is not good.
: a few outdoor trips teach me how to improve indoor climbing as well. instead
: of rushing to the crux and give a bid, take time to relax both

q*n
发帖数: 1203
11

from
instead
good
the
bouldering就是帮助这个的吧,必须先琢磨好路线一气呵成, 最好还能记住sequence.

【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】
: i think the difficut level of the moves is similar for the same rating but
: there is no marked holds guiding you through and you need to take time to
: figure out the right hold and squence. many cruxes you cannot even see from
: below and plan in advance. it makes a difference to figure out the right
: move in 2 seconds or 10 seconds if the rest point is not good.
: a few outdoor trips teach me how to improve indoor climbing as well. instead
: of rushing to the crux and give a bid, take time to relax both

q*n
发帖数: 1203
12
nice, 你现在胆子比一个月大了很多嘛。 :)

【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】
: 7 of us visited Pinnacle National Monument on last Sunday.
: Lead 5.9 "wet kiss"
: Worked on TR 5.11a "the verdict" with 10+ take.
: It's volcanic rocks there; it feels like i could peel off any holds. Some
: rock is 1/4 embedded into the wall with 3/4 sticking out as a perfect hold(
: if it doesn't break).

1 (共1页)
进入Outdoors版参与讨论
相关主题
Lion's Head归来问一下关于falling的问题。
[TR] S Early Winter Spire / S Arete2本攀登的书
终于爬上了gym的finger crack昨天爬了Half Dome
学Crack Climbing的一点体会Climbing log: 11/23, Frenchman Coulee
[TR] A week in the high SierraSW US road trip-2- Wave
red river gorge归来Malibu照片
一定要小心落石今日爬墙
有好的关于climbing的书或者video推荐吗?gym里爬墙的无聊之处
相关话题的讨论汇总
话题: pinnacle话题: monument话题: 20090621话题: national话题: lead