s********e
发帖数: 814 | 1 有谁有兴趣？ 明年晚冬或者初春， mountaineer's route
有去过的请多指教注意事项 |
q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 2 我有兴趣，朋友今年去过不过我没怎么研究。
【在 s********e 的大作中提到】
: 有谁有兴趣？ 明年晚冬或者初春， mountaineer's route
: 有去过的请多指教注意事项
|
n*****a
发帖数: 1327 | 3 今年去没有滑到雪；早的话(雪多到不用走Ebersbacher Ledges)有兴趣，但我可能不会
登顶，以滑雪为主。
【在 s********e 的大作中提到】
: 有谁有兴趣？ 明年晚冬或者初春， mountaineer's route
: 有去过的请多指教注意事项
|
s********e
发帖数: 814 | 4 sent you a msg, maybe we can start gathering info first
【在 q*n 的大作中提到】
: 我有兴趣，朋友今年去过不过我没怎么研究。
|
s********e
发帖数: 814 | 5 not sure ski routes, permit required? if you wanna join discussion, msg me
your email pls?
【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】
: 今年去没有滑到雪；早的话(雪多到不用走Ebersbacher Ledges)有兴趣，但我可能不会
: 登顶，以滑雪为主。
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 6 等着你们把appoach熟悉了以后带我去爬East Face/East Buttress呢。我今年的
partner bail了
【在 q*n 的大作中提到】
: 我有兴趣，朋友今年去过不过我没怎么研究。
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 7 I did this route last March and have trip planning information/beta/TR
If you need them, leave me your email, I can fwd to you
【在 s********e 的大作中提到】
: 有谁有兴趣？ 明年晚冬或者初春， mountaineer's route
: 有去过的请多指教注意事项
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 8 East face/East buttress share the same approach with mountaineer's route. Us
ually, people camp at iceberg lake and climb the last 2k ft on summit day, a
nd descend from mountaineer's route.
I am looking for partners to climb East face/east buttress. For safety purpo
se, I hope to form a team of 4 climbers(two pairs), every one in the team:
1) Can lead 5.7 trad confidently (unless you only want to be follower)
2) Has multi-pitch climb experience and can climb (follow) efficently and sa
fely.
3)
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: 等着你们把appoach熟悉了以后带我去爬East Face/East Buttress呢。我今年的
: partner bail了
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 9 Have my eyes on it too. Let's see when can we do it...
Us
a
purpo
sa
d
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: East face/East buttress share the same approach with mountaineer's route. Us
: ually, people camp at iceberg lake and climb the last 2k ft on summit day, a
: nd descend from mountaineer's route.
: I am looking for partners to climb East face/east buttress. For safety purpo
: se, I hope to form a team of 4 climbers(two pairs), every one in the team:
: 1) Can lead 5.7 trad confidently (unless you only want to be follower)
: 2) Has multi-pitch climb experience and can climb (follow) efficently and sa
: fely.
: 3)
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 10 Great
Let's see how many people are interested in this climb.
.
day,
team:
and
one
【在 b***y 的大作中提到】
: Have my eyes on it too. Let's see when can we do it...
:
: Us
: a
: purpo
: sa
: d
|
|
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 11 I don't think it is realistic to have someone in such a route that cannot
lead. When we were on Rainbow Butress (5.8+, 8 pitch), I forgot to bring my
climbing shoes. My partner had to lead everything and I followed in my
hiking shoes with some short prusick in hard jamming sections.
By the end of the day he was totally exhausted, although he is a 5.11 trad
leader. You don't want to do it for long routes like that.
He ended up keep on bragging about that climb for quite a few months.
Us
a
purpo
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: East face/East buttress share the same approach with mountaineer's route. Us
: ually, people camp at iceberg lake and climb the last 2k ft on summit day, a
: nd descend from mountaineer's route.
: I am looking for partners to climb East face/east buttress. For safety purpo
: se, I hope to form a team of 4 climbers(two pairs), every one in the team:
: 1) Can lead 5.7 trad confidently (unless you only want to be follower)
: 2) Has multi-pitch climb experience and can climb (follow) efficently and sa
: fely.
: 3)
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 12 Guides do that all the time :)
my
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: I don't think it is realistic to have someone in such a route that cannot
: lead. When we were on Rainbow Butress (5.8+, 8 pitch), I forgot to bring my
: climbing shoes. My partner had to lead everything and I followed in my
: hiking shoes with some short prusick in hard jamming sections.
: By the end of the day he was totally exhausted, although he is a 5.11 trad
: leader. You don't want to do it for long routes like that.
: He ended up keep on bragging about that climb for quite a few months.
:
: Us
: a
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 13 That's not fun
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: Guides do that all the time :)
:
: my
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 14 moderate routes are OK. actually I feel more relaxed leading a 5.6 than
following it. coz when I follow, I have no excuse to slow down :D
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: That's not fun
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 15 Actually it is very realistic. Whitney East face only has 6 pitches real cli
mb (1 5.7 pitch, 5 5.6 pitches), the other 7 pitches are either low class 5
or class 3/4 scramble. Leading all pitches on Rainbow buttress is a totally
different story.
It would be fun to lead all pitches on this route, but it won't be fun for t
he follower from my perspective.
my
.
day,
team:
and
one
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: I don't think it is realistic to have someone in such a route that cannot
: lead. When we were on Rainbow Butress (5.8+, 8 pitch), I forgot to bring my
: climbing shoes. My partner had to lead everything and I followed in my
: hiking shoes with some short prusick in hard jamming sections.
: By the end of the day he was totally exhausted, although he is a 5.11 trad
: leader. You don't want to do it for long routes like that.
: He ended up keep on bragging about that climb for quite a few months.
:
: Us
: a
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 16 For 5.6 trad, I feel easier for leading than following
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: moderate routes are OK. actually I feel more relaxed leading a 5.6 than
: following it. coz when I follow, I have no excuse to slow down :D
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 17 another thing with following is that I tend not to pay much attention to
route finding when I follow and very often turn a 5.6 easily into 5.8.
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: For 5.6 trad, I feel easier for leading than following
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 18 Exactly, I didn't pay too much attention to follow until I screwed up a move.
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: another thing with following is that I tend not to pay much attention to
: route finding when I follow and very often turn a 5.6 easily into 5.8.
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 19 看到1的时候我心说可以努力
看到4的时候我彻底崩溃
Us
a
purpo
sa
d
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: East face/East buttress share the same approach with mountaineer's route. Us
: ually, people camp at iceberg lake and climb the last 2k ft on summit day, a
: nd descend from mountaineer's route.
: I am looking for partners to climb East face/east buttress. For safety purpo
: se, I hope to form a team of 4 climbers(two pairs), every one in the team:
: 1) Can lead 5.7 trad confidently (unless you only want to be follower)
: 2) Has multi-pitch climb experience and can climb (follow) efficently and sa
: fely.
: 3)
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 20 hire a sherpa, say, cabbage.
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 看到1的时候我心说可以努力
: 看到4的时候我彻底崩溃
:
: Us
: a
: purpo
: sa
: d
|
|
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 21 can he carry 80lb and climb?
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: hire a sherpa, say, cabbage.
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 22 这么小瞧白菜？
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: can he carry 80lb and climb?
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 23 不敢
他被压哭了你负责
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 这么小瞧白菜？
|
q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 24 I think I am close to meet all these...
Having lead a few pitches of 5.7 this season and starting to get comfortable
with it,
route-finding is another story though, urhh...
what time frame do you have in mind?
Us
a
purpo
sa
d
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: East face/East buttress share the same approach with mountaineer's route. Us
: ually, people camp at iceberg lake and climb the last 2k ft on summit day, a
: nd descend from mountaineer's route.
: I am looking for partners to climb East face/east buttress. For safety purpo
: se, I hope to form a team of 4 climbers(two pairs), every one in the team:
: 1) Can lead 5.7 trad confidently (unless you only want to be follower)
: 2) Has multi-pitch climb experience and can climb (follow) efficently and sa
: fely.
: 3)
|
q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 25 actually i knew a girl who followed this recently, she also followed
cathedral peak,
so she has some nice rope-gun friend. but it is much more fun leading those
beautiful routes to share the responsibility and satisfaction. :)
my
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: I don't think it is realistic to have someone in such a route that cannot
: lead. When we were on Rainbow Butress (5.8+, 8 pitch), I forgot to bring my
: climbing shoes. My partner had to lead everything and I followed in my
: hiking shoes with some short prusick in hard jamming sections.
: By the end of the day he was totally exhausted, although he is a 5.11 trad
: leader. You don't want to do it for long routes like that.
: He ended up keep on bragging about that climb for quite a few months.
:
: Us
: a
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 26 Very interested.
Have the self-rescue book, had the very basic covered in a guided leading
course before, but need to read the book and practice a little.
Route finding might be an issue.
Did the main trail three times before as day hike, had altitude sickness
symptoms after trail crest(?)...which could be a concern as well.
Us
a
purpo
sa
d
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: East face/East buttress share the same approach with mountaineer's route. Us
: ually, people camp at iceberg lake and climb the last 2k ft on summit day, a
: nd descend from mountaineer's route.
: I am looking for partners to climb East face/east buttress. For safety purpo
: se, I hope to form a team of 4 climbers(two pairs), every one in the team:
: 1) Can lead 5.7 trad confidently (unless you only want to be follower)
: 2) Has multi-pitch climb experience and can climb (follow) efficently and sa
: fely.
: 3)
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 27 Second it's not fun for the follower. The best part about multi-pitch is
route-finding. Otherwise I would rather go for the great hard single pitch
routes at the Red River Gorge with 10-minutes approach, 2-dollar per day
camping, and 5 dolloar dinner at the Miguels'. It's even better to bring a
rope gun and pull on toprope really hard.
cli
5
totally
t
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: Actually it is very realistic. Whitney East face only has 6 pitches real cli
: mb (1 5.7 pitch, 5 5.6 pitches), the other 7 pitches are either low class 5
: or class 3/4 scramble. Leading all pitches on Rainbow buttress is a totally
: different story.
: It would be fun to lead all pitches on this route, but it won't be fun for t
: he follower from my perspective.
:
: my
: .
: day,
|
s********e
发帖数: 814 | 28 Hardcore, trad climbing 在那个海拔 :D
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: 等着你们把appoach熟悉了以后带我去爬East Face/East Buttress呢。我今年的
: partner bail了
|
s********e
发帖数: 814 | 29 I can do 3&4 only. Need to catch up trad this autumn :P
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 看到1的时候我心说可以努力
: 看到4的时候我彻底崩溃
:
: Us
: a
: purpo
: sa
: d
|
s********e
发帖数: 814 | 30 according my friends who climbed whitney this april, summit condition could
be much worse than rainier in july. snow close to summit was too soft after
sunrise. better move to March.
going to start planning. anyone interested, pls send msg to me.
regarding training. went to mt washington during thanksgiving, the ice was
too thin for beginner. only experienced climbers went to have fun in
tuckerman ravine. instead, i climbed mt washington in 40mph storm, whiteout
weather through lion head trail. the climb itself is not too hard, but
weather was really nasty |
|
|
l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 31 Wow, one of the 55cc. Nice! |
q***z
发帖数: 554 | 32 I'm in for the mtneering route, no technical climbing though, swith-backs
down. want to do a day hike or so....
Also want to bag Boundary Peak in Nevada as my plan of state highpoints...
will fly from NYC... |
n*****a
发帖数: 1327 | 33 It is hard to say; on the last memorial day weekend the snow condition
wasn't that bad for climbing at all. But in March weather can be un-
stable.
could
after
was
whiteout
【在 s********e 的大作中提到】
: according my friends who climbed whitney this april, summit condition could
: be much worse than rainier in july. snow close to summit was too soft after
: sunrise. better move to March.
: going to start planning. anyone interested, pls send msg to me.
: regarding training. went to mt washington during thanksgiving, the ice was
: too thin for beginner. only experienced climbers went to have fun in
: tuckerman ravine. instead, i climbed mt washington in 40mph storm, whiteout
: weather through lion head trail. the climb itself is not too hard, but
: weather was really nasty
|
S********t
发帖数: 18987 | 34 趁你在,问点FREE DIVE问题,
你带多少配重,
另外一般水产都在多少水深?
自己试验了一下,
一个下去太慢,感觉配重不够，
另一个还是紧张,
明知还不到平时憋气的一半时间,
但就急着上去
【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】
: It is hard to say; on the last memorial day weekend the snow condition
: wasn't that bad for climbing at all. But in March weather can be un-
: stable.
:
: could
: after
: was
: whiteout
|
d**p
发帖数: 1800 | 35 问个新手问题，爬这种trad的时候，登山包怎么办？
Us
a
purpo
sa
d
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: East face/East buttress share the same approach with mountaineer's route. Us
: ually, people camp at iceberg lake and climb the last 2k ft on summit day, a
: nd descend from mountaineer's route.
: I am looking for partners to climb East face/east buttress. For safety purpo
: se, I hope to form a team of 4 climbers(two pairs), every one in the team:
: 1) Can lead 5.7 trad confidently (unless you only want to be follower)
: 2) Has multi-pitch climb experience and can climb (follow) efficently and sa
: fely.
: 3)
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 36 背着
如果是比较小的包，直接背着，或者follower背着（两个人合用一个包），其他的东西
留在base
如果都是大包，lead的人不能背，只能等上去了再用绳子拽上来
whitney的east face，如果从iceberg lake 营地出发，两个人背一个小包就可以了
.
day,
team:
and
one
【在 d**p 的大作中提到】
: 问个新手问题，爬这种trad的时候，登山包怎么办？
:
: Us
: a
: purpo
: sa
: d
|
d**p
发帖数: 1800 | 37 如果要用绳子拽，是不是很容易被石头什么的刮？
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 背着
: 如果是比较小的包，直接背着，或者follower背着（两个人合用一个包），其他的东西
: 留在base
: 如果都是大包，lead的人不能背，只能等上去了再用绳子拽上来
: whitney的east face，如果从iceberg lake 营地出发，两个人背一个小包就可以了
:
: .
: day,
: team:
: and
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 38 whitney east face这个级别的不需要用绳子拽
一般需要的，多在aid climb里，墙都很steep，这个倒不是大问题
【在 d**p 的大作中提到】
: 如果要用绳子拽，是不是很容易被石头什么的刮？
|
d**p
发帖数: 1800 | 39 明白了
另外登山的5.7要比专门去攀岩地的5.7难吧？穿着硬底高帮的登山靴，而且爬之前已经
走了很多山坡路 |
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 40 比gym里5.7要难
牛人可以穿boots登
不过很多人还是需要岩鞋才行
关键是，不止要应付climb本身
route finding， weather， high altitude，都是问题
【在 d**p 的大作中提到】
: 明白了
: 另外登山的5.7要比专门去攀岩地的5.7难吧？穿着硬底高帮的登山靴，而且爬之前已经
: 走了很多山坡路
|
|
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 41 climbing 5.7 in the gym and climbing an alpine 5.7 are totally different
sports. the difference is like playing a race car game on xbox and driving
one on an F1 track. the former helps the latter in certain aspects and to
some extent.
【在 d**p 的大作中提到】
: 明白了
: 另外登山的5.7要比专门去攀岩地的5.7难吧？穿着硬底高帮的登山靴，而且爬之前已经
: 走了很多山坡路
|
d**p
发帖数: 1800 | 42 对，知道肯定比gym里难。也肯定比例如说去red rock爬5.7 trad难。除去登山方面的
技术和知识，如果只考虑高海拔和体力的影响。登山爬5.7是不是应该先准备好在平地
上5.8，或者更高？
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: climbing 5.7 in the gym and climbing an alpine 5.7 are totally different
: sports. the difference is like playing a race car game on xbox and driving
: one on an F1 track. the former helps the latter in certain aspects and to
: some extent.
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 43 最有效的是多去爬实际的山
【在 d**p 的大作中提到】
: 对，知道肯定比gym里难。也肯定比例如说去red rock爬5.7 trad难。除去登山方面的
: 技术和知识，如果只考虑高海拔和体力的影响。登山爬5.7是不是应该先准备好在平地
: 上5.8，或者更高？
|
s****t
发帖数: 746 | 44 要爬alpine 5.7，gym里面爬5.8可能不够，除非你5.8爬得完全不吃力。
不然爬的时候你可能会很慢，影响总体的速度。
【在 d**p 的大作中提到】
: 对，知道肯定比gym里难。也肯定比例如说去red rock爬5.7 trad难。除去登山方面的
: 技术和知识，如果只考虑高海拔和体力的影响。登山爬5.7是不是应该先准备好在平地
: 上5.8，或者更高？
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 45 我个人感觉是爬alpine 5.7的一个必要条件是gym top rope 5.10。gym climbing不能
代替real rock，但是每个爬的好的alpine climber都会告诉你gym climbing is very
important.
【在 d**p 的大作中提到】
: 对，知道肯定比gym里难。也肯定比例如说去red rock爬5.7 trad难。除去登山方面的
: 技术和知识，如果只考虑高海拔和体力的影响。登山爬5.7是不是应该先准备好在平地
: 上5.8，或者更高？
|
d**p
发帖数: 1800 | 46 呵呵，我是说室外的trad 5.8，不是gym里
不过我纯粹是好奇问问，这个差别太大了，根本没有去的打算
【在 s****t 的大作中提到】
: 要爬alpine 5.7，gym里面爬5.8可能不够，除非你5.8爬得完全不吃力。
: 不然爬的时候你可能会很慢，影响总体的速度。
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 47 it's really hard to compare alpine and cragging. it's like comparing apples
and oranges. they could be very similar and could be very different.
【在 d**p 的大作中提到】
: 呵呵，我是说室外的trad 5.8，不是gym里
: 不过我纯粹是好奇问问，这个差别太大了，根本没有去的打算
|
d**p
发帖数: 1800 | 48 那顶绳5.10和trad 5.8相比呢？
very
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 我个人感觉是爬alpine 5.7的一个必要条件是gym top rope 5.10。gym climbing不能
: 代替real rock，但是每个爬的好的alpine climber都会告诉你gym climbing is very
: important.
|
s****t
发帖数: 746 | 49 要是能lead trad 5.8可能还行，但要看你mountaineering那部分的能力了，
如果那个不行，估计还是很累。
【在 d**p 的大作中提到】
: 呵呵，我是说室外的trad 5.8，不是gym里
: 不过我纯粹是好奇问问，这个差别太大了，根本没有去的打算
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 50 I lead some trad 5.8s but not all of them. I TR most 5.10s in the gym and
some easy 5.11s. I'm very conservative when it comes to trad climbing.
On the other hand, the rating is only a reference. Not all 5.8s are created
equal. It depends a lot on the terrain, rock quality, the type of climbing (
slab vs overhang, crack vs face, crimp vs pocket, etc etc), whether they are
sustained, how well can they be protected, the consequence of a fall, etc.
all play very important roles when you lead on real rock. The grade is only
one factor. Even that is not necessarily consistent and reliable.
【在 d**p 的大作中提到】
: 那顶绳5.10和trad 5.8相比呢？
:
: very
|
|
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 51 这是这个板上的月经贴了。回头我弄进FAQ好了
不过话说回来，我自己也是这两年才对这个东西有切身体会的。
created
(
are
.
only
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I lead some trad 5.8s but not all of them. I TR most 5.10s in the gym and
: some easy 5.11s. I'm very conservative when it comes to trad climbing.
: On the other hand, the rating is only a reference. Not all 5.8s are created
: equal. It depends a lot on the terrain, rock quality, the type of climbing (
: slab vs overhang, crack vs face, crimp vs pocket, etc etc), whether they are
: sustained, how well can they be protected, the consequence of a fall, etc.
: all play very important roles when you lead on real rock. The grade is only
: one factor. Even that is not necessarily consistent and reliable.
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 52 流量不大就行
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: 这是这个板上的月经贴了。回头我弄进FAQ好了
: 不过话说回来，我自己也是这两年才对这个东西有切身体会的。
:
: created
: (
: are
: .
: only
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 53 errr...
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 流量不大就行
|
k**e
发帖数: 2728 | 54 Co-Eeeeeeewwww..
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: errr...
|
p*****o
发帖数: 1285 | 55 这个楼虽然没有歪到十万八千里，还是拐了不少。来稍微正一下，我打算三月份去，如
果你们时间也差不多，搭伙吧。
【在 k**e 的大作中提到】
: Co-Eeeeeeewwww..
|
m*********2
发帖数: 19 | 56 I am interest in only hiking up using mountaineer route. Does anyone
want to hike this mountain with me.
【在 s********e 的大作中提到】
: 有谁有兴趣？ 明年晚冬或者初春， mountaineer's route
: 有去过的请多指教注意事项
|
n*****a
发帖数: 1327 | 57 man, again?
why so early this time:D
【在 p*****o 的大作中提到】
: 这个楼虽然没有歪到十万八千里，还是拐了不少。来稍微正一下，我打算三月份去，如
: 果你们时间也差不多，搭伙吧。
|
p*****o
发帖数: 1285 | 58 no big reason. probably no permit hassle? again because LD thinks that it's
safer for me to go to the same place every year. Do you want to go again?
I'm sure that you can ski all the way to the portal in March.
【在 n*****a 的大作中提到】
: man, again?
: why so early this time:D
|
s***n
发帖数: 10693 | 59 我我我！
【在 s********e 的大作中提到】
: 有谁有兴趣？ 明年晚冬或者初春， mountaineer's route
: 有去过的请多指教注意事项
|
s***n
发帖数: 10693 | 60 我msg你我email了，求join discussion!
【在 s********e 的大作中提到】
: not sure ski routes, permit required? if you wanna join discussion, msg me
: your email pls?
|
